This is a good AIRY, albeit short, rightward traversing crack climb with commanding position - read: more people should climb it. Despite its short length of actual climbing (~50 feet), if 5.10 hand cracks are near your limit like Mexican Crack's traverse, this route should give you a nice pump.
The only cons about this route are (1) a seemingly long approach with some bushes and scrambling and (2) it has slightly painful jamming.
This route may be difficult to discern. It did not look like what my partner and I had perceived after looking at Ruckman's topo. One can view it from Wheels on Fire up the canyon about 50 yards and midway up the wall. It does not look like much of a climb from the ground, but if it were closer to the parking it would be pretty popular. It traverses way more than it goes up.
Also, when you finish and rappel off of this climb, you can toprope the 5.10+ below the anchors - better and harder than it looks with gritty rock that might clean up with more ascents.
Location
This is not too much further up the gully from Wheels on Fire. Near Wheels you have to do some scrambling to gain the gully above. From there, walk up canyon about 75 yards. Before you reach the Box Elder trees and the nice slab left of them, you have to scramble up a chimney to reach the heavily scrub oak covered ledge. From there, walk left on that ledge about 40 feet to gain a large flake. Walk between the flake and the main wall to reach the base of Sinsemilla.
Protection
.75 Camalot to 3 Camalot(mostly 1's and 2's); You may want to include (1) 3.5 camalot
Never been able to find it. Can't wait to use your info - thanks. Looks close to Oasis...
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Jul 28, 2007 rating: 5.10b
You would have to wait in line for this route if it weren't such a long hike. Awesome jamming and exposure from the start. There are good stances for pro (and rests) until the feet run out beneath the crack in an overhanging section. You'll get a pump for sure, and you might get a chance to see how well you place gear too! Ten, I'll be your guide for Sinsemilla if you let me second Oasis for you...
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