Ross Connection, The 

FA:  Merrill Bitter, Bret Ruckman 1981 (P2) Unknown (P1) Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  2 pitches, 90 feet Views: 185 page views Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Feb 26, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: 1) Who's on First 2) P1 of the Ross Connection

Description 

In the gully that The Great Chockstone starts in, are 3 routes on the right wall. First, from left to right, is Who's On First a bolted slab route, last is Multiplicity, a bolted arete climb. The Ross Connection is in between these two, climbing right along a ramp to a set of flared grooves. These end on a ledge and allow you to start a second set with better gear. End at the anchors.
Pitch two climbs off the anchors right past the tree and down-climbs a bit of Crescent Crack until you can traverse into the thin crack with maybe one good piece (Blue Wild Country), and maybe a second (Yelllow Metolius). Work up this crack/slab until you can get to the chicken-head, traverse right to the pile of jumbled boulders, and set an anchor. Nothing after the 2 pieces is possible, so if the second falls, he could get bloody on a slabby pendulum.

The book calls this a 5.10c. We felt it was easier, 9+ or 10b depending on who you ask.

The book also gives this an R/X rating. We both felt a flat R was better, if you use the tree.

Protection 

First pitch is flaring and it liked cams (medium), second half was more nut-friendly, and the 2nd pitch--yellow Metolius, Blue WC. Climb above the tree and then downclimb as this will help if you fall before getting any pieces in.

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