Unreliable 

FA:  Heinrich Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.12b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 467 page views Submitted By: d-know on Jan 25, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route is on the blunt prow left of where old reliable succumbed to the ages. Start atop old reliable carnage in double cracks to gain the sloping ledge where the first bolt is clipped. Follow bolts (good foot work neccessary) to the sheer face w/right-diagonaling crack. Follow crack to commiting finish moves. One of my favorite clip-ups in the canyon.

Protection 

Medium-to-small cams for the start. Stoppers or TCUs for top crack. QDs.