Howdy Folks- Nice page! I had a chance to climb this route with Lynn Wheeler shortly after the first ascent. I did many climbs with Lynn back in those days. Great to see Little CottonWood still receiving so much attention. Wheeler was one of a kind. Cheers!---Jeff Newsom
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 6, 2004
Great fun.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Dec 1, 2004 rating: 5.9
This is my favorite single pitch of climbing anywhere!
This is an easier lead than the Green Adjective (better pro); if you've done the Green A, you gotta do this one.
Mike suggests bringing a #3 camalot for the start. The start is a traversing undercling. It can be protected with either a #3 or a #2. However, it isn't a very good spot to stop and place a piece. If you just traverse past it, you will get to a great spot to plug in a #0.75. Above, you won't need anything bigger (I sometimes put a #1 in just below the roof), and you can leave the heavier stuff at home.
I would, however, recommend carring small cams in the blue and green alien range.
If you link this up with the top of Pentapitch, you won't need the big stuff up there either.
I loved this climb!! I lead it and found it hard to make nut placements though. I thought that the Green A was easier, as far as protecting, but that is just me. All in all a wonderful climb.
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Aug 28, 2006 rating: 5.9
This is a great line for aspiring 5.9 leaders. There are ample opportunities to place gear wether cams or nuts. It takes both equally well. Just get up on it. Definately a classic hands/fingers climb!!
By Nathan Furman From: Salt Lake City, Utah Apr 14, 2007
What a great pitch. Top-roped it a bunch today. The crux is very distinct and ticklish, just a couple/few moves using just tips in the cracks and feet that aren't substantial. I can't wait to go back and do it again. --Nate
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jun 17, 2007 rating: 5.9
For a Traditional good time, lead it on all passive gear!
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Jun 27, 2008 rating: 5.9
One of my favorite routes in LCC. I thought that this was a bit easier than the coffin and Green-A. Maybe that's cause it sewed up and the holds were all there, except maybe that "tips" section which caused me to second guess and forfeit the onsight :( Great for beginning 5.9 trad leader!
This is on my list for best climbs in LCC, I think it is an awesome lead for new 5.9 climbers because protection is good. This is just a great route should not miss this one.
By Tosh Peters From: Park City, UT Jul 23, 2008 rating: 5.9+
another must do lcc route. the tips section was intense and the gear is really good the whole route. i would say the leave the number 3 at home because there are places at the start that take nuts. there is a pretty easy traverse to the belay from the top of the first pitch of pentapitch. I took my buddy on this for his first crack climb and he loved it.
By Jared Hargrave From: Salt Lake City, UT. Sep 14, 2008 rating: 5.9-
Is it just me or does this seem like a soft 5.9. I climbed it today and it is my first 5.9 trad lead. Did it no problem. Maybe I'm just improving (or have thin fingers,) but I had a hell of a lot harder leads on 5.8's, Satan's Corner for example. Or maybe I just psyched myself up for my first 5.9 for so long that when it turned out to be not so bad it was a bit of a let down. Don't get me wrong, it is an AWESOME crack climb. I just was expecting to get more scared on this one.
the rating is fair, you're just incredibly strong. take your guns to the green A and do gordon's hangover. that ones soft for the grade as well. don't forget to spray, i mean, tell us all about it.
What's with the sloppy gloop around the 3! bolts and the longshoreman's shipping chain? Holy anchor your tugboat to that bad-boy! (also...there is an active bee's nest in the tree trunk at the lower anchor)