The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
Looking east at some guys on the top of the first ...
Description
Bushwhack Crack is a very fine, beautiful jam crack on the right side of the Schoolroom wall. It is the obvious straight in splitter with several trees in it about 100' up. The first pitch is a 3-star pitch, too bad it is not longer!
P1) 5.8 Climb the thin hands crack, passing the crux right off the deck. Continue up, with the crack turning to fists near the belay. The first pitch ends at a set of chain anchors and a small foot ledge. Many people rap at this point (one rope), but the second pitch is also pretty good.
P2) 5.7 Continue up the crack through the trees, angling right until a crack starts going straight up. Climb this (low angle) to a thin traverse at a chicken head. Continue easily to the right with a tree with anchors.
Descent) Downclimb 10 - 15 feet to a set of chain anchors on the face. Rap 100' down to the deck.
Protection
Standard Rack - mostly pro for thin hands. Some pieces up to a #3 camalot size are useful too.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 28, 2004
I am not as enthusiastic about this route, however it is a good moderate option in the canyon. The first 20 feet of the first pitch were a bit slippery and insecure for my liking. It felt harder than 5.8, but climb it and gain confidence!
I haven't climbed this but have also heard that it's hard and greasy. And that everyone loves it. Can't wait to try it out this summer!
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Mar 29, 2004 rating: 5.8-
I thought this was an awfully easy 5.8 There is really only one 5.8 move to get established and one more in a bulge up higher, but otherwise it is just good easy 5.7 Not as hard as Movie Variation and only slightly harder than Schoolroom Direct. Not continuous enough to get 3 stars from me, but good fun.
This is an awesome climb. Classic LCC jam crack - a good intro to LCC. It isn't slippery or insecure if the rock isn't too hot. Go on a cool day, or in the morning.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Apr 14, 2005 rating: 5.8
Did both pitches the other day, and whereas the second pitch isn't as hard or as consistent, or even the same style, it makes the climb a better route. There are 2 lines after the chains. The first and, IMHO, the better line is the left line. Step left out of the trees and continue up as the crack starts angling right. At the end of the crack, scamper up the runout but easy slab to a rap station (slings on a flake). Rap down to Callitwhatyouplease. The other line, can be climbed as Peter said, or continue up the runout but easy face. Either way a better Bushwhack, then just the 1st pitch.
I climbed this for the first time two days ago. I agree with one of the previous posts: on the second pitch, the left crack is better than the right crack. The right crack is nothing special, and also thins out about 2/3rds of the way up to a shallow outward flaring crack that was difficult to pro and then to a runout. Not a good combination. Left crack is fun, easy climbing. It pinches out at the top and there is a short runout to the chains, so get a piece or two in as high as possible. I found that a tri-cam worked well.
A good friend of mine put those anchors in quite a few years ago because the old belay (which was a bunch of webbing around one of the trees) was killing the tree and about to rip out. We were up there last year after climbing some routes on that cliff and were rapping off the bushwack belay. We both agreed that the anchors should have been placed about 10 feet or so higher on better rock. By the way, it looks like you changed the chains that were up there and put in hangers/screw link/chains. Which is really nice, except for one of the bolts is a bit of a spinner. In my opinion I agree that the belay should be placed higher in better rock.
Crux was 15' off the ground for me, slippery feet to go over the slight bulge. Punch in a red alien, mash your feet in the crack and go for it. The rest of the 1st pitch is awesome. Cool moves starting from the ground instead of the big boulder
By George Vigeon From: Park City, UT May 27, 2008 rating: 5.8
It gets greasy when the temps hit around 85 and up. Getting your feet to the first chickenhead is the crux. .4, .5, .75, and a 2 camalot and maybe a set of smaller nuts. Lots o fun but gets crowded. There is a nut stuck right below the first bush.
Schoolroom Area
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