Peter Gram leading the crux traverse on the first ...
Description
The second pitch of this is absolutely superb - one of the best dihedrals I have ever done. It will be wet when everything else is dry, but it is still reasonable if it is dripping a bit.
Find the big easy looking dihedral downhill from the Green Adjective thin crack, and just right of a hard looking sport route.
P1: Climb up the dihedral for about 40 feet, and traverse right at a fixed pin. Make sure to protect the second on this traverse - it is a bit thin. Belay at chains around the corner from the pin. 60', 5.7
P2: Climb the long dihedral that traverses right along the bottom of several roofs. This pitch is long, beautiful, and sustained 5.5 or 5.6 The corners of the roofs love to eat the rope and give heinous drag, so try to place a piece at these corners to guide the rope along. It is best to set up a belay if the rope drag gets to be too bad. After about 140' of this, escape right into an easy gully and downclimb 10' or so to the anchors on the Green Adjective.
One rope rap leads to the ground from here.
Protection
If doing it in 2 pitches and 5.7 is your limit, bring a good sized rack from small to 3 camalot.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT May 26, 2004
This is a nice route for the grade, in the canyon, but the downclimbing at the end definitely detracts from the overall quality in my opinion. Fun, good climb... not exceptional. Protect the traverses!
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Aug 4, 2004 rating: 5.7
This climb was a blast and very different. Up/over/up/over/up/over/down. It did, however, have 2 negatives. First being the 1st pitch inconsistency. One move to get off the ground, followed by a length of relatively easy climbing, followed by a nice traverse to the anchors. Second. The downclimb at the end. Downclimbing in and of itself isn't too bad, however easy scrambling down is bad. Also, watch the swallows, as there still seems to be nests.
Oh yeah, don't forget the downclimb, liek I almost did. I am just zipping along, looking at the slab to the north (drooling), and my belayer yells "You're not there yet?" I look down and kinda south and well, there I was.
A really fun route. It's real long but it's such a cruiser that u finish before u know it. The little downclimb wasn't "fun" but it shouldn't stop anyone from doing the route.The book has kept me away from this for a while with its description of nasty rope drag but... if u use slings and protect the corners it isn't bad at all. I saw no need for the optional belay in the middle of pitch 2.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT May 31, 2005 rating: 5.7
This route is great. When I did this a few years ago for the first time, I said to Justin, "That was SPECTANGULAR!" We both laughed. A couple weeks later while we were in Red Rocks, Justin realized that the associated word, RECTACULAR, isn't as appealing.
Rope drag isn't too bad if you runner long and choose your placements wisely. It is imperative that you protect the second on the traverse and downclimb. A couple years ago a climber was experiencing heinous rope drag while traversing. He clipped the pin, pulled up a bunch of slack, then fell. The pin pulled and he had a bad ledge fall.
The hanger has sharp edges and if the rope would get caught on one of the two halfs during a fall - the rope could get shredded or worse - cut. Belay off to the right side backing up with a number 2 Camalot. Great Route!
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.7
done in 1 pitch w/70 meter rope adds a little more fun, using some long runners and a little rope strategy.
Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area
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