Just Say No to Crack 

Fun route.

Concensus from everyone I know is that it is more like 5.7. About the same difficulty as Huevos Rancheros, but with tons(!) of protection.

Climbed this one again, and did I say 5.8, what an idiot. I will change the route to 5.7.

I disagree with the above comment. This was a fun route, and I agree with it being a 5.7 more like a 5.6 on the upper part of the route where the jugs get bigger. Fun, friction-y moves on the bottom. Thanks to whoever bolted it!

Seems like a squeeze job to me too. Only 4 to 8 feet away from both Variety Delight and Huevos Rancheros. Had been TR'd as a alternative to either of those routes, too, methinks. Any idear who put this up?

I climbed it years ago, before the lower bolts were added. It use to have a healthy 30ftish runout to the first bolt (which is now the 3rd or 4th bolt). I do know that the lower 2-3 bolts have only been added in the last 5 years.

Great route for beginners: 5.7-ish 8 bolts, 2BA. Approach the Egg and gain the belay ledge in the middle of the base. Start up the face to the left of "Variety Delight Crack" and then step over the crack to gain the first bolt. A quick mantle move gets you above the bolt (crux). Then continue up great friction climbing up past bolts that were placed on "lead." The 2 bolt anchor allows for easy abseil with a 60+m rope or 2x 50m ropes (better option).

Once you get out of the start (admittedly, you can place gear in Variety Delight for the first ten feet), I feel like it is a truly nice line that, although easily TR'd from Variety Delight's anchors, makes for a great lead for beginning climbers. Little Cottonwood is not full of moderate routes with bolts this close, and certainly the runout thing to the Right of it is not for the timid, or the fledgling beginner. I think this is a great route for people getting into the sport, and hope it gets left alone.