Starting (30 feet?) left of Smitty's Wet Dream, you will see an angling ledge system moving up and right then onto a blank face with four bolts. The blank face is the crux and was pretty slick in my memory. You are heading up and right to meet the top of Cranial Prophylactic.
Descent:75 foot rappel.
Protection
Basically quick draws will suffice, however small nuts and cams could come in handy in a few places. Or... set up a top rope above Cranial Prophylactic.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 22, 2004 rating: 5.10a
I believe there are 5 bolts on the route. Another fun friction route. The crux is definitely after the 3rd bolt, until you can get your hands onto the edges on the green face. After the 5th bolt, one has 2 choices. 1) Continue on the ledge to the vertical crack, then go up to the anchors. 2) Traverse right and up on the sloping ledge.
Just climbed this today. It is a fun route with some pretty healthy runouts (from the last bolt to the anchors is very "healthy").The main crux is from the fourth bolt to the green section of the wall. A cam would be helpful under the small roof beneath the fist bolt, as the bolt is about twenty feet up.
p.s. Two of the three anchor bolts are spinners, so be careful.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.10a
favorite slab route in the area
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Sep 29, 2008
I am not "man" enough for this route...
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Oct 26, 2008 rating: 5.10a
This route is not too runout any more (just a little between bolts 1 and 2 on the easiest slab section). It has, I believe, 7 bolts (not sure when they were added). A #2 cam is deemed prudent for the starting moves. excellent line, especially near the top from the crux to the last bolt! (last 4 bolts)
Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area
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