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Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
Leslie Hamilton finishing the second pitch of Beck...
Description
Beckey's Wall climbs the prominent right facing dihedral just right of Satan's Corner and left of Tarzan. Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined.
P1) Climb up slabby low angle dihedral for a short pitch to get to a set of chain anchors. (5.6)
P2) Continue up the dihedral, doing some fun stemming up to a piton. Then climb up the steep dihedral, using flakes on the left face. Finish at a ledge with 3 bolts with chains. (5.7)
From here, one option is to rap to the top of pitch 1, and then to the ground. Otherwise, continue up an easier wide crack to a belay and a tree. Then a downclimb must be done to get to the Five Fingers rappel, then doing a one rope rappel.
Protection
Standard Rack. Mostly smaller stuff, but I placed up to a #3 camalot.
History
This is [part of] a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:
"Yes, I did the route with Roslyn Stewart. The guidebook people sure are slow getting it changed. I know Eric B. told them more than once we did not place a bolt anywhere. Likely we rapped from pitons or trees. My guess is that we did it in 2 pitches. I have a shot on the climb, looking down; a poor but visible photo.
"Across the canyon, yes, Kor and I did something. I think the book prob. has it right."
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 2, 2004
Watch out for kamikazee birds! A bird flew straight into my face while I was belaying atop of pitch 2 of Beckey's Wall. It wasn't protecting a nest or anything, it just didn't see me I guess?!? Weird.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT May 2, 2004
The second pitch of this climb is so good that you shouldn't ruin good vibes by climbing the lame last pitch which also forces you to down climb in a frustrating attempt to gain the five fingers rappel. Rap after the second pitch and stay happy! Normally I am against just climbing the 'fun' pitches of a route, not finishing it, and then claiming you climbed the route... but in this case don't feel bad, rap.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 2, 2004
Agreed. I rapped after pitch 2 as well. Otherwise, it would be a bit of a hoof to get back to the gear at the base of the climb. Also, route quality looks like it diminishes.
One of my first routes (c1980) and I still enjoy it! If you remember a few months back it made the back-page spread for AAJ accidents in Rock and Ice (or was it Climbing) when a climber clipped one of the manky pins at the top part of Pitch 2, fell, pulled the pin and smacked the dihedral below. New leaders should stay alert to the potential pancake... and as always, view pins with suspicion.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT May 27, 2004
Wasn't the accident report in relation to Perhaps? Perhaps I am wrong... (sorry I couldn't resist...) either way, still a good reminder to back up pins if you are able.
Well John, there's proof that the mind goes with old age. I looked through my Rock and Ice archives and it was indeed Perhaps... I wonder when I'll start needing Depends?
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jun 9, 2004 rating: 5.7
This is best done in one pitch to the second rap anchor - you reach easily with a 60 meter rope and there is no drag. This is my new favorite pitch in LCC.
Also watch out for a fat, sneaky squirrel that knows how to open zippers!!! I lost 3 clif bars to this little @#$%! He waited until my second was 20 feet of the ground, then went straight for the packs.... Fantastic route regardless.
Others are not joking about the fat, sneaky squirrel that hangs out at the base of this climb. It has figured out how to open zippers! I am not kidding. I lost a Cliff bar and it nibbled through a plastic bag in my partner's pack..
I was climbing on Beckey's on 8 July. My partner led the route, was the second. When I got to the second set of anchors, I started to set up the rappel. There two new 1/2" anchors, and an old 1/4" guy. The nut on the left anchor - when facing the anchors - was loose. I tightened it as much as I could by hand. If you are climbing it in the next while, take a wrench, if you don't have a wrench, be careful and check it.
Climbed to the second chain set then scrambled up to the 5.4 portion of Beckey's Wall and immediately traversed to the right to the bottom of Pebbles and Bambam (5.9). There are five bolts and double chain at the top. Great View! Rap down to the tree - walk left to Beckey's 2nd chain. Rap to bottom from there w/ 60 m rope. What a great climb! I wondered what got into my pack and ate a hole in my Cliff Bar! See photo for route.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Feb 26, 2005 rating: 5.7
Finally got off my fat wintering butt, and climbed this today. What was I waiting for? Other than the greasiness this climb was great. But of course the greasiness goes hand in hand with greatness. I didn't actually do the last pitch as we went right onto the bolted slab.
This is sweet route. I'm just starting on trad, and that second pitch was definitely the steepest thing I've lead, I was so stoked when I topped out on it. We also rapped from the 2nd set of anchors to avoid the walk-off.
That squirrel is outrageous! I saw the thing as I was belaying my second up the first pitch and thought it was a raccoon! I returned to find all the stuff in the top pouch of my pack (which I coould have sworn the zipper was closed on...) spread around. Found the wrapper for my clifbar in the bushes nearby. It also gnawed apart the case of my leatherman! Consider hanging packs from a tree or something, that thing is living the easy life up there.
As good a 5.7 as you will ever find. Routes of this grade are rarely this steep but those holds up high are soooo good.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.7
one of my favorite full moon runs. figer tip variation is excellent also.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Aug 30, 2006 rating: 5.7
If one decides to do the 3rd 5.4 pitch, gain the ledge with the tree and walk right to the chains of Pebbles and Bambam. This will eliminate the need for a walk-off. You can now rap down to the midway belay station, then rap to the top of Beckey's, and 2 more to the ground.
With that said the 5.4 pitch is just that...5.4. However, this is the funny part, my partner felt the 5.4 on Beckey's 3rd pitch was easier than the greasy approach crack to the Dihedrals. You know....the 4th class scramble. I would agree.
P1 is fairly short and low angled, although the hand jams seemed shallower than they appear at first glance. Great feet, though, provided you get then into the crack.
P2 makes the climb. Steep, but better hand holds, especially the bomber flakes just below topping out. Great rests, great canyon views ... don't miss this LCC classic.
P3 is probably not worth doing, unless you have an obsessive-complusive need for completion. Kind of lessens the climb, actually.
The route is sun exposed and radiates heat. Bring plenty of liquid and sunscreen. Then, clean your hands before you shove them into that crack!
By Aaron Lowry From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 3, 2007
I climbed this today (9/3/07) and found a bunch of left gear and a pair of eyeglasses at the bottom of the route. It looked as if somebody may have fallen, and abandoned their gear to quickly get medical attention. I can't think of any other reason to leave it behind. Anyway, let me know what you lost and I'll be sure to get it back to you. Go ahead and shoot me an email at aaronlowry@gmail.com
So, it has been documented before, but it seems the urban (mountain) legend goes on that this was climbed by Beckey and Kor. I realise that it has been thus recorded in every Guidebook that has been published since that time. I have spoken to Fred a number of times about it. Rosylyn Stewart was his partner and he was hoping to impress her with a first ascent hoping maybe that it would lead to other adventures even more to his taste. I think it did. Kor never climbed on Beckey's Wall with Fred. Hopefully, this urban legend will be corrected in future guidebooks....even like this one!
The second pitch was all the fun. I just had to climb it because of the history and popularity. We did the Pebbles and Bam Bam finish. Which I recommend if you like slab climbing.
Great route! Next time I'll sew 1 and 2 together, I was hesitant without knowledge of the gear. A standard rack and a couple extra #2 ish cams is perfect to top out to the second anchor. We did the 3rd because Pebbles and BamBam looked run out. We TR'd Pebbles after and realized that the route does break left and what looked like runout was actually fine. Rapped w/ twin 60m rotes from Pebbles to top of 2nd and again to the deck. Fun for the whole family!
Beckey's Wall Area
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