This is the thin crack right up the prow of bongeater buttress with the bolt near the top. The route officially starts on the sloping ledge at the bottom of bongeater and goes around the corner and up the overhanging crack. The crack is expanding at the bottom and TCUs, nuts and aliens work well. The middle part eats nuts. The top part, past an old knifeblade driven up and in the crack takes a bit more creativity and is A2. A stretch from the last pin placement (short people may have to topstep) and you clip in to a new large bolt. One more creative move and then an easy mantle to the shelves which hold 3 bolts and rap chains. We did not do it free- at 5.12. It was a great aid route however and we did an additional variation at the bottom- starting directly below the crack with two thin pins, then an exciting hand traverse protected by a looped chickenhead. If you do it this way I would rate it 5.7 A2 Despite its short length it is very vertical. The route is like climbing a skyscraper.You can just see the very beginning of the route at the corner of the photo, it is just around to the right. We will try to get some better photos.
Protection
If you are aiding this route, knifeblades(2-3) and lost arrows (4) include short thick ones. We use wired nuts from large to small peanuts. Aliens also useful and a blue TCU. I used a talon and it fit perfectly on the hook move.
Please don't nail on this route. It is a great free route, and as an aid route can easily be done clean with thin wires.
By bheller From: SLC Utah Mar 21, 2008 rating: 5.12c
This climb is really awesome. I love the description of it as climbing a skyscraper- so true. It takes perfectly adequate gear the whole way. Just bring small and micro nuts. I placed a couple of cams as well. The two knife blades up high are fine, totally solid. The original free route departs from a stance on the chicken head on the arete and traverses left and then up the face. Prepare for very thin micro chips that munch your tips-likely V5/V6. The route definatley goes direct up the prow, probably at 5.13a/b, but I am unaware if anyone has lead it. If done direct up the arete at the top the route gets 4 stars from me! The original left traverse finish only gets 2. Also, after talking with the first ascensionist, it seems clear some holds have broke at the crux- I think 12c is fair by LCC standards.
Bongeater Buttress
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