The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
BETA PHOTO: The bottom crack is Hatchet Crack.
Description
Just barely left of Hatchet Crack is Lizzie Borden. It basically climbs the crack/groove system on the left as it angles to the rappel ledge of Schoolroom Rappel. It starts the same as Hatchet Crack, and then diverges along a fun ramp. It is very tempting to clip a bolt or two from The Rumba as they are in your face. Climbing stays consistent through the bottom two-thirds. Fun crack and groove work with some face climbing thrown in. 2 warnings: Not a lead for a 5.9 leader, and don't pass up gear opp's on the consistent part (bottom 2/3's).
Protection
There are chains at the top (Schoolroom rappel), but gear is needed for the route. Pretty standard rack, but bring 1 large cam. The "Book" says a 4 inch. That didn't quite suffice. I shoulda brought a 5 inch, cause my 4" cam popped when my second fell below it. I was darn sure it wouldn't hold. Oh well. A couple of runners helped also.
Nice Nathan! Always wanted to do this route, but never knew much about it. Why isn't it for a 5.9 leader? runout? no gear? Just curios what you meant by that.
Concerning the "not for the 5.9 leader"... I wouldn't say it is runout, but close. The 5.9 move was on a small nut that was not easy placement. And the 4" cam comment by Ruckman was wrong. I didn't have a 5" with me and I am not sure if it would have mattered if I did, due to the flaring nature of the crack, and without that piece you are making another funky move with long fall potential. I belive my comments to my belayer were, "Alright, watch me. This cam is gonna pop if I fall, and it's gonna be a fun one. *insert nervous laugh*".
Schoolroom Area
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