About 90% of the people i've seen climb this thing start out of the corner. I think it's harder that way. Incedentally, the jug did not break off, it was pulled off by a local hardman. I still think ALL CHALK is still 12a.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.12a
face climbing in little cottonwood doesn't get any better than this. 5 starz
pulled a huge piece of rock of this route yesterday. It is above the crux so it won't change the rating I believe. It is up by the third bolt, maybe a little above it, still some pretty suspect rock up there. Makes me wonder about the quality of the rock that some of those older bolts are in.
By David Shiembob From: slc, ut Sep 27, 2007 rating: 5.12a
Woohoo, my first .12. Great vertical climbing. The bolts are kind of manky for such a classic route. People with more experience than me feel it's right on at .12a. By the time you clip the 3rd bolt, the hardest part is over, the missing rock hasn't changed that. I remember reading Performance Rock Climbing and seeing a photo of someone climbing it in there, it was listed as .11d!
boulder problem (crimpy but straight forward) to much easier climbing... most of boulder problem avoided by starting in dihedral, easier start, more akward but easily protected by bolt
Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area
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