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The Hook Direct 

5.10c R

   
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FA: Stump, Roberts
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 348 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 14, 2005


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Description 

Above the Hook Variation is a two bolt slab off the anchors, that deserves to be climbed more often. Getting to the first bolt is heady, but the physical crux is above the 2nd bolt and is well-protected. Very thin and still flakey. After the bolts there is some serious runout to your only gear placement. 2 separate cams (yellow Metolius, purple DMM) can be placed 3 feet apart in a flake system, followed by a very creative nut placement possibility. Run it out again to the rappell anchors.


Protection 

2 draws, some small to medium wallnuts, a couple of small cams 1" or less.



Add Comment Comments on The Hook Direct
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By tenesmus
May 11, 2006

It IS a cool nut placement. Fun to do Mind Blow, this and then Knobs to Gumbyland for a slab circuit. Just watch your rappels.

By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 19, 2006

Isn't this really rated 5.10a? Not 5.10c friction for sure. Night and day difference between this route and Mind Blow.

Fully argee with the R rating, though.

Brian in SLC

By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Apr 9, 2008

Testing has proven that added body weight enhances rubber/rock adhesion on slab climbs.