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One Time at Band Camp 
Organization for the Organized 
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Refugees From Reality 
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Refugees From Reality 

5.12a

   

FA: T.Phillips, L. Douglas
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 420 feet, Grade II
Views: 603 page views

Submitted By: TP in SLC on Jun 12, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Topo


Description 

Refugees From Reality 5.11+/12a FA. T. Phillips, L. Douglas/ summer 05'

Hike uphill from Stifflers Mom (east) to the black roofs at the top of the "hill". The route starts to the left of the black roof.

P1. Start up a short crack on a slab to the roof. A lone grey bolt marks the start. After clipping this start up the STEEP TCU crack, and finger traverse left until it is possible to climb up to the belay. Short 40'. 5.10/ 5.10+.

P2. Friction up past belay clipping two bolts along the way to the black roof. Plug in a handsized cam and step up to the roof, clip two bolts and continue up passing a bolt to a funky highstep. After high step hand traverse clipping bolts to belay. 5.12a

P3. Climb left clipping a bolt and keep going left in undercling, climb up passing 3 bolts to a roof. Plug in some cams make a few fun moves to the lip, clip bolts and do some harder slab moves to belay. 5.10+


Protection 

A 70 meter rope will put you on dirt in 2 raps from the top. rack: doubles on TCUs and a handsized cam, lots of long runners.



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By tenesmus
May 28, 2007

I had the "set" for trying to onsite it but...

This is a really cool route with great protection. You gotta be able to climb a little steepness and a little slab and more steepness, then more slab. It brings together the spectrum of LCC skills and goes really fast too.

The second pitch is more fun than the 5th of Stifflers. You need a handsized cam to get up into that roof so don't leave it with the second. Some may like an extra couple of bigger finger sized pieces in addition to those other two bolts but I thought it was fine without.

thanks for the printable topo - and the work to put it up there. Was this one done ground up too?

By TP in SLC
Jun 5, 2007

Tenesmus,
Glad you liked it. Thanks for taking those comments for what they were..jokes..

From the last belay it is possible to climb up and left onto that communal big ledge (great snack/water break ledge) and continue up Organization for the Organized for a slightly longer outing.

We didn't bolt this ground up, hindsight sucks because it would have been totally possible, oh well.

By Nubbins80
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 11, 2008
rating: 5.12a

Great climb! I felt like my back was going to crack in half making the first move on the ledge of the black roof.