The original route starts near the right edge of the sail, angles left to reach a wide groove, that leans right, then traverses left at the end. An exercise in rope-drag managment, although a direct 5.7 r-ish start can help avoid the problem. Must do!
I followed this route a few months ago, and it was sweet. the leftward traverse at the beginning is kind of hard to protect without smaller aliens or C3 or equivalent, although you probably could get some bomber small stoppers in if you are a passive-master. definately worth doing this guy, and the view is amazing. stays interesting to the end. I think we had a 60m rope and were able to rap off the top just fine.
Burly! I don't think the smallest C3 or alien would fit anywhere at the start. It's nuts or nothing, and the placements are far from satisfying. The climbing isn't too hard but a bit insecure with high steps and gritty rock, and a fall would be disastrous. I wonder if there used to be a piton on that traverse. Anyway, once in the groove, it stays stout. The OW on top will eat you alive. Tape up, bring large stuff (I placed everything up to 4.5) and prepare for a fight. Rope drag isn't an issue with long runners. Solid 5.8, Satan's Corner style.
Definitely satans corner 5.8 stout. I wondered if there was a pin at the start too. There are a lot of good places for a pin but have to settle with pnuts. The rock is a bit gritty but still climbs well. Old school fo sho, respect Wilson/Love... and the goat that lives there.
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