Precious Lost 

I really don't think Precious Lost is 5.10, more like 5.10- not really any C on the route. And I feel the first pitch is 5.10a. But I suck @ rating things, but would call the route 5.10a if pressed.

The crux pitch is a bitch for us short,round guys,(Lurpus Maximus aka Tyler Philips has it made). (I still think it ranks as a 10+ crux, but I'm 5'6") This is definitely a great route worth checking out. Fun moves, butt puckering cruxes, and that great feeling of being very high off the canyon floor. A lot of work has been put into this route and we get to reap the benefits. If you haven't done this route yet, it is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon. Thnx to T.P. (for my bung hole) and Luked

Enjoyed this climb earlier this spring. Suggest to those unfamiliar with sub-grades to rate as 10-, 10, or 10+. Thought 1st pitch to be 10- and crux to be 10. Did not see any 5.10c terrain on the route.

Fun Route, with a variety of climbing and protection through-out. A couple of #3's for the third pitch, full value style. Thanks Tyler!

Precious Choss has some good climbing, especially the ever-widening third pitch (it's worth climbing the route just for those handstacks). Kudos to Tyler and Luke. However, I have these words of caution:

1. If a party is aleady on the route, strongly consider going elsewhere, as rockfall is a very real and serious issue.

2. Do NOT linger near the bases of any of the routes on Coalpit Buttress (due to rockfall issues).

3. Be very careful on the route as much of the route is surrounded by areas of stacked, loose, rock.

4. Although the actual difficulty is mellow, this is an adventurous route, for those who can routefind through potentially dangerous, loose terrain. It good to know before you go that this isn't like doing Pentapitch or the Thumb.

5. The rap down Sumatra from the top of pitch 5 was too far for my 70m rope, I came up about 2 meters short and had to lower off the bolt above. Others must have done the same because there was a biner and rap ring on the bolt.

I was around when dave budge was climbing this route. My partner and I were on stifflers mom when we heard what sounded like an avalanche.I have never seen such an enormous amount of rock fall. Definately dont linger at the base.

So, that rap needs a little TLC. We did one short rap to that first station and then a long one down and left to the top of the 5th pitch of Stifflers. Potentially, you could rap the first two pitches of Precious lost and down the great ledge between DoggyStyle and Stifflers. There is a tree right between the top belay and the top of Stiffler's 5th but we had no extra webbing...

We ran 1&2 4&5 and then 6&7 together. But you gotta know there will be serious rope drag right at the very end of #5 no matter which way you tackle that little roof.

Also, I liked the flake moves on that last pitch but the rope drag going back right from the bolts was burly. Its a total conundrum because the climbing is good over left with the bolts but the anchors needed to be where they are due to rock quality.

Finally, I think Tyler is right - there is nothing harder than .10a - so don't be intimidated by the grade. Nothing is sustained either - its an adventure route and a fun one at that.

Fun adventurous route, definitely has a south side flavor to it. I thought p1 and p6 were the best, really cool climbing up steep but featured slabs. The wide crack on p3 would be really good if you weren't walking in the dirt most of the way, especially the final runout where you're left hoping you don't start a dirt avalanche that will funnel down the crack.
The 2 roofs on p5 are quality and protect really well. On the 2nd one don't bother liebacking, just traverse in the crack on bomber finger locks to the jug.
p7 has sweet exposure and wild moves up some flakes, but going back to the belay is a bitch. The 5.7R direct variation looked very good from the top, looks like maybe a bolt on the last face would make it safe and better to avoid bombarding people on Stiffler's.

As Dave Budge mentioned, the 1st rap down sumatra (from the top of p5) is way long. The rap ring is gone from the bolt, I managed to snag one of the slings on the anchor and clip in it then downclimb, but if you have anything short of a true 70 you won't make it.
I had never bushwhacked while on rap but it's what you'll have to do to get to the top of p1. Aim right through the thinnest part of the thicket and pray when you pull your rope.

Bossial do you mean add a bolt for the variation or for rope management on the last pitch?

Also starting dirt avalanches is HIGH on my list whilst climbing. When else can you pour 5 gallons of dirt on top of your partners head and be all "oh, snap, sorry I guess I should have called that?" Desert flav in the Wasatch!


:)


After rapping this a few times I think it sucks nuts too. I rap to the big communal ledge and find the Doggystyle or Stifflers raps.

The mighty dirt avalanche has apparently (as of 9/20/08) let loose its muddy load. A friend called down Hell's Satan's upon my head as he lead up the 3rd pitch. His follower said he was glad he wasn't leading since, due to the dirt, it was the hardest pitch on the climb. I don't think that the follower helped the situation as he was laughing hysterically the entire time. Adam you da man. Nice lead. You wanted some adventure, right?!!!
Just a thought, but I put a sling in a high branch of the big pine that resides on the ledge before the final WIDE section. Then avoid the dirt by climbing .8R slab.

Does anyone know if you can get off this route before P5 or if you are committed til you get to the first rap anchors from Sumatra?

Thanks in advance.

gcubed, you can bail from the top of P1 (one rope) or the top of P2 (two ropes) or the top of P3 (two ropes). After that you are pretty committed on the 4th pitch, although I am sure you could figure something out. Don't bail on the last 2 pitches! They are some of the best! Cheers.