This route is just one of the additional fun slab routes added this year to the largely previously ignored Coalpit Buttress. Coalpit Buttress includes everything between Triangle Wall and Pentapitch area. Approach as for Stiffler's Mom or Pentapitch. Start as for PRECIOUS LOST. This is the next slab to the east of Endless Torment. Look for bolts that start after a short corner on the left side.Pitch #1: Climb the first pitch of Precious Lost to a belay ledge with two Fixe ring bolts. 25m, 5.10+.Pitch #2: Continue up Precious Lost passing two bolts and then instead of going up and right to that tree belay, persevere through a tad of easy jungle whacking to a two bolt belay to the left of a large tree and left facing corner. 5.7, then 3rd class.Pitch #3: Climb up and left passing several bolts on the fun slab. Bearing left and reaching the cruxy "headwall" of the pitch, slap your way up past this to a another two bolt belay. 30m, 5.10+.Pitch #4: Climb past several more bolts on easier ground to a roof. Surmount the roof protected by a bolt to another bolt and traverse again to the left to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.9.One may either rappel from here or traverse 25m left to the 5th pitch of Stifflers or continue up and right to the very enjoyable upper pitches of PRECIOUS LOST.
Protection
QDs and a good assortment of nuts, TCUs, and cams to #3
Climbed Sumatra on Aug. 23. We traversed to Stiffler's for the descent, this proved to be the way to go, because we avoided the fiasco going on above the first pitch of Precious Lost. 4 climbers after finishing Japanese Terraces decided to downclimb to the east off of the Pentapitch buttress. They were down soloing up to 5.6 in the rain from what their "leader" said. Also dropping large rocks down Precious Lost onto us and our packs. Not Cool.
The route is really good, with excellent rock on the 1st and 3rd pitches and very cool moves, no typical wasatch slab moves here, cool dikes to pull on. Great job by the FA.
Any info on the routes to either side of Stiffler's Mom?
Later, Craig.
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Aug 24, 2005
craig that beta can be bought w/ 6% beer.....lol...
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Aug 24, 2005
Actually Craig you climbed the first two pitches of Precious Lost to get to Sumatra. Sumatra ends at the bottom of pitch 5 of The Precious Lost.
Thanks Tyler. I was aware that Sumatra started on Precious Lost, while rapping down Stiffler's I noticed another bolted line to the right between Stiffler's and Precious Lost. While traversing to the anchors on Stiffler's I saw a rap anchor below me at the top of a bolted arete as well as anchors and lead bolts to the left of Sumatra's 3rd pitch anchor. Seemed to be the same line and at the bottom of Stiffler's you can see a fixed pin and a bolt up and to the right. You probably now all this already. Right?
I am sure we could work something out on the 6% beer.
Craig.
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Aug 25, 2005
Craig that line is called Doggystyle it checks in at about 5.10/5.10+. But beer will let the pitch by pitch beta flow, on more than Doggystyle too.
Why not post the info? Then all these sweet new lines will get climbed, cleaned, and grades confirmed! Oh yeah!!
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Sep 1, 2005
Ok ya'll. The raps for the Precious Lost and Sumatra are installed. take a 70 M rope. Use extreme caution as 1 of the raps it takes the whole rope. It will put you back at the base of Precious Lost.
CoalPit Buttress
RSS Feed
