The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
BETA PHOTO: Tingey's w/o lines
Description
This is the Gate Buttress " summit" pitch. Climb all of the Tingy's Tourture and hike up and slightly west from the last set of chains, to a big pine tree with a flat base. It climbs the obvious arete past bolts. It was bolted on lead. There is a funky 5.9 crack on the left side of the formation to. Rap from fixed anchors.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 12, 2005 rating: 5.9-
Still gritty. Good crystal-climbing. Good exposure. Since you are up there anyway on Tingey's, you might as well do this pitch. It is fun, but not as good as some of the pitches on Tingey's. The bolting is great! There are still many variations up there to be done. From the base of this climb, the scramble down to the Schoolroom rappel is relatively quick. I haven't done the rappels, but I doubt they are much faster.
Fun pitch...right out of the Mountain Goat penthouse!
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT May 1, 2007 rating: 5.8+
I've actually started downclimbing the East Gate and find it to be a better descent since you get to walk past all those awesome looking routes that hardly get climbed (and it's about the same as either the rap or the walk/rap). From the base of Axis or from the top of Tingey's, aim for the slot off the east side (climber's right). There is some awesome looking jigsaw calcite (or whatever) deposits that you down climb under... there is also two pretty worthy cracks that can be toproped on your right (as you descend). Maybe they will get developed one day??? the downclimb is mostly 4th with maybe two or three ez 5th...there are a few slung trees...and i plan on putting in a decent rap route :)
anyway...ima gonna post about that east gate area--i've got lots to say...check it out
Beckey's Wall Area
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