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Altered States Gully
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Betty's In 3D 

5.12

   

FA: James Garrett and Kris Pietryga, June 2004
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Views: 239 page views

Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 19, 2003


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Description 

This route branches off left from the middle of the second pitch of Betty's Altered Elbow.

Rather than climbing directly up and toward the arete on the right, traverse bolts to the left up very interesting face/friction moves to the bolt belay under a roof. This is good climbing and if cheating, the climbing grade is about equal with with its neighbor, but perhaps better rock??
The third pitch surmounts the roof with hard free climbing or grabbing the silver jug handle. Then veer back right up an easier long slab pitch (4th pitch) to the very top of Betty's Altered Elbow.

Rappel Betty's Altered Elbow to the base via 4-5 rappels with one 60m rope. 5.9 A0 or 5.12, 4 pitches. As for Betty's Altered Elbow, this was established on lead.


Protection 

12 QDs and 3-4 small cams should be adequate



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By James Garrett
Jul 17, 2005

Actually, if done free, it would eliminate the A0 rating, but I didn't know how to correct the entry.

By Bobby Hanson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 18, 2005

James, you contribute a lot, both to this site and to the climbing community at large. Why don't you register?