Betty's Altered Elbow 

Checked out this route 2 weeks ago and found it to be a pretty enjoyable climb. A little bit of loose rock on pitch 1 & 2 and kind of a questionable belay anchor on top of pitch 2 or I would have given it more stars. Linking pitch 3 & 4 was straightforward and no rope drag. Thanks for all the new routes, been really enjoying doing a new route every week.

Thanks for your comments and glad you enjoyed the route Craig. Pitches #2 and #3 were meant to be linked and that hanging belay you pass is for rapping convenience, but they are nevertheless bomber, I believe? The loose rock should be quite minimal lately?

The consensus seems to be that this hanging belay is NOT GOOD....I will try soon to improve or change or replace it or move it. In the mean time, if you don't like it....please don't use it, I would feel horrible if someone was injured or worse because of a stance in a loose block. I am scratching my head that I never noticed it before?

Hi James, the loose rock is quite minimal but still present. I had left my pack right at the base of the climb and after climbing and rapping above it was mostly covered up by the rock we had sent down. In particular between the first two bolts you pass a small roof, a few loose chunks in that area. Maybe I am just not used to newer routes and maybe I nead to tread lighter. The bolts are all bomber as you mentioned. I was refering to the detached? block that the bolts are placed in at the second belay, not the rap anchor. While rapping the route I was pretty spooked by this anchor and unclipped from it while my partner rapped off of it. I am probably just paranoid. I am sure that block isn't going anywhere soon. Thanks again, I have always enjoyed your routes over the years.

Craig,You mean the detached flake moved or wobbled? I will have to go up and check on it again in the next couple of days. I can't remember anything like what you describe where those bolts are, but it may have loosened from weather or something? I will get back to you after I do.

Did this route today and like it, have enjoyed many of your routes over the years JG; will be honored to meet you and shake your hand hopefully someday soon.
This route offers one of the only, if not the only, moderate, multi pitch, sport routes in LCC that I can think of.
Definitely 9/9+ with everything there; placed a green C3 on pitch 1 and a yellow C3 on pitch 3 (which seems to be the crux pitch).
Views on the top of this thing are raaaahaaad!!!!!!
Only qualm I have is with the station 2 anchors (same as guy above); that "detached" block makes me pee in my panties; seems like you could've moved them 3-5' to the climbers right in the solid face just below the first bolt of pitch 3.
Route is truly cleaning up and the texture of pitch 4 is downright "schtickeee".

On a side note, what is the route that branches to climber's left from this route about 2/3's the way up pitch 2 with red hangers and climbs over the vertical wall at its top?? Name?? Rating??

I edited an earlier comment about the rap station...sorry i have not changed it, yet. The other route is Betty's In 3D. Also drilled on the lead, though the 5.12 bit can easily be aided at A0 giving another moderate route to its neighbor

James moved that second belay today. I can see how you'd want that. Its super good now. The whole route is super good. Like Xover said, the only .9 sport multipitch around here. That's a quality addition to a fantastic area. Can't believe no more people are up there.

Yo, guys who like Bettys!
Xover, I was up there looking for some little detached wobbly "block"...that thing must have been over 4 tons! But anyway, yes, Tenesmus, Jason and I moved the belay. I didn't know I was going to do that today , so I pounded the bolts deeper into the hole flush with the rock. Please excuse the "chopped" appearance (only temporary, I can assure you)...I will return sometime with some patching material to clean it up and make it look real pretty just like Betty.

I did this route today with my buddy JP. I led the first pitch and he led the last three. What a great route. Rock is still pretty chossy. The crux for me was the move after the basketball-sized chickenhead on the third pitch. We trundled a sizable rock off the bottom of the third pitch (it was an accident waiting to happen.) Thanks for the great route, James. I definitely plan on coming back to it.

This is my favorite route in the Altered States Gully...all right James!!

A really fun route with some cool features. Definitely worth the hike and a great route to take that "new to climbing" partner. The giant chickenheads up high are the largest I've seen in LCC. Bolted intelligently.

Thanks James,

TDA