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Empty Plate 

A2

   

FA: James Garrett
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Aid
Length: 5 pitches, 410 feet, Grade III
Views: 276 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 16, 2005


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The Mighty Luke D showing some love. Empty Plate g...


Description 

After climbing the first two pitches of Standard Thumb, move out of the gully onto West Wind Buttress. Climb past 3 bolts to a seam crack where nailing may be necessary. Some fixed heads left in place. Eventually the angles lessens and a ledge with two bolts is reached.Pitch #4 ascends a diagonalling crack to a step face peppered with chicken heads. Pitch # 5 eventually runs out of Chicken heads, and the route was abandoned 25 feet from the top.


Protection 

Climb the first two pitches of Standard Thumb. Then from the belay, head up and left onto West Wind Buttress East Face out of the gully. Some cool nailing



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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 17, 2005

Please be sure to wear a helmet!

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 17, 2005

If the route was abandoned 25 feet from the top does that mean that the FA is still avaliable with a few more bolts?

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 19, 2005

I would never think to claim someone elses work. I aplogize if you got that impression. I just think it would be fun to complete it with the one working it and I was only going to offer my powerdrill services (if that's the reason it wasn't completed) to that person putting it up. Sounds like a fun line.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 23, 2005

KEN OH, KEN!!! this site is dying without you...KC phone home....

By James Garrett
Jul 7, 2006

I don't know how to edit the beta, but anyway, this route was completed to the top where the rock does deteriorate quite a bit as expected....nevertheless, great exposure and position and fun climbing. Great pictures to or from S-Crack would be something for somebody. Really beautiful. Quite a bit of the aid could be freed now that the route is in, but I will wait on others to comment on the free rating of sections. Who is Ken?

By Craig Martin
Sep 17, 2006

I placed a couple heads, a couple of beaks and one knifeblade on the first pitch. Also found a hook hole, but I didn't bring a hook so I had to haul up a log I found in the gully to use as a cheater stick. Pretty comical. In hindsight I guess I could have used a beak in the hole, does that work in granite? All clean aid after the first pitch.

By James Garrett
Sep 18, 2006

Craig,
You nabbed the second ascent of this one, too! I will have to put you on my private mailing list to get you the 2nd ascent on some fuuture ones coming up!....I didn't know you belonged to THE HANG DANGLE AND HEAD BASHING CROWD! Don't you just love placing heads? It is a part of climbing appreciated by few.