Air Express 

FA:  Taylor Type:  Trad, Sport Length:  1 pitch, 110 feet Views: 160 page views Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 8, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Air Express and Altered States w/o line

Description 

In between the obvious Cheap Thrills right-facer and Altered States thin crack/groove, is a bolted line that surmounts the roof. The romp up to the roof wasn't protected, but the roof is well protected, with a 1/4" buttonhead (lol). Above the roof, you might get some of those trad pieces to stick in the grooves, otherwise keep on moving on those rand smears. The crux did not seem as hard as 5.11d, as there were just enough edges to keep you from giving in to total despair. (The mark of a "despair" climb is usually 5.11d, IMHO).

Protection 

5 bolts and a pin protect this with a two-bolt anchor midway, as well as at the top. The top one has slings still and will need chains (my next trip). Also you might be able to use a couple of small cams or medium nuts.

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BETA PHOTO: Air Express