BETA PHOTO: Bright Shining Lie and Magic Circus w/o lines
Description
Up high in the gully on the east side, you will see the obvious right-facing dihedral with nice white granite and sharp edges, this is Cheap Thrills. A little south of this is a ramp that works right, climb this ramp to the one bolt anchor at the base of the line. A Bright Shining Lie then continues up the slightly gritty face. The only scary move is off the piton that looks like it has seen better days. The moves up higher seemed to be the crux, but all in all, a very consistent climb. Now I know I have said this before, but if this climb saw more traffic, it would really clean up.
Protection
12 bolts and a pin + a two-bolt anchor. I cut off all the slings and added brand new chains.
nice to lead this if you're freaked out about Romance on the Rocks. Its a good, much safer way to get up there and do some nice friction. That said, its much less sustained than Romance.
Weird bolting in a couple of sections, clips about 2 or 3' apart then a slight runout. Long runners on the first 3 bolts will help reduce rope drag or be prepared to heave near the end. The lower half is gritty with a few hollow holds then things improve on the upper slab with a bunch of short cruxes separated by moderate climbing. The hardest moves might be on par with the Fin Arete but nowhere near as sustained.
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