Triznut 3/4 of the way up Fool's Paradise at the h...
Description
Great 3rd pitch var. for Western Grebe.Climb up a good corner with a crack that protects well, pull the small roof up onto a slab that follows a bolt protected dihedral, pull another small roof onto another slab and up to a great ledge, then run up some more easy slabs to a 2 chain anchor shared w/Western Grebe.
Protection
A cam or two for the beginning and maybe one for the upper slab and 5 bolts.
Sorry, the description for this route was for the first pitch only. This climb does have a second one, which is worth doing if you're up on DOTM. 2nd pitch embarks upon the final slab which leads directly to the pine tree, sporting 2 bolts and gear for the anchors or a short bushy down climb to the beginning of the pitch.
Second pitch off the final ledge is good..though I am sure not climbed much..so expect a little rice.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jun 10, 2006 rating: 5.10b PG13
1st pitch was fun, but the real excitement came from pitch 2, which is the 2nd set of bolts from the west. I believe the 2nd pitch also had three bolts. Set up slings around the tree for the anchor, and continue up to the chains. Also, the rappell off requires 2 60-meter ropes. 2 50 meter ropes are a bit short and require some down-climbing, and there is a knot-grabbing dead tree on this rappell. Watch it.
Steve is right about being a good pitch for a beginning .10 leader. Really fun moves in the middle part of that shallow dihedral. Edges and smearing everywhere.
There are two ways to do this pitch (1st pitch)... One is pulling the roof of the curving dihedral onto another slab just below the big ledge with the tree -- This is done after the 4th bolt. There's a bolt just over the roof. Clip it and head up. The other follows a couple more bolts out right and then meets up by the tree.
Not sure which is the direct and which is the variation..? But both ways are good choices for this pitch. One offers a nice little roof, while the other keeps to the slabbin.
Very fun climbing, through a sea of bolts... At the crux I could touch 3 different bolts, with a 4th one just out of reach...." but if you climb 2 feet over here it's 10a"......sheesh....