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Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks 
Daffy's Shaft 
Dark of the Moon 
Duck A L'Orange 
Fool's Paradise 
Great Grebes, Batman 
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Unknown AKA Crack of the Duck 
Via Duck 
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Western Grebe 
Western Grebe (Mantle variation) 
Why a Duck? 

Fool's Paradise 

5.10

   

FA: Pete Lenz & Doug Fuller
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Views: 361 page views

Submitted By: triznuty on May 15, 2005


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Triznut 3/4 of the way up Fool's Paradise at the h...


Description 

Great 3rd pitch var. for Western Grebe.Climb up a good corner with a crack that protects well, pull the small roof up onto a slab that follows a bolt protected dihedral, pull another small roof onto another slab and up to a great ledge, then run up some more easy slabs to a 2 chain anchor shared w/Western Grebe.


Protection 

A cam or two for the beginning and maybe one for the upper slab and 5 bolts.



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By triznuty
From: Murray, UT
Jun 7, 2005

Sorry, the description for this route was for the first pitch only. This climb does have a second one, which is worth doing if you're up on DOTM. 2nd pitch embarks upon the final slab which leads directly to the pine tree, sporting 2 bolts and gear for the anchors or a short bushy down climb to the beginning of the pitch.

By tenesmus
Oct 30, 2005

This is a fun way to get up to Dark of the Moon.

By Tea
Mar 23, 2006

Second pitch off the final ledge is good..though I am sure not climbed much..so expect a little rice.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jun 10, 2006
rating: 5.10b PG13

1st pitch was fun, but the real excitement came from pitch 2, which is the 2nd set of bolts from the west. I believe the 2nd pitch also had three bolts. Set up slings around the tree for the anchor, and continue up to the chains. Also, the rappell off requires 2 60-meter ropes. 2 50 meter ropes are a bit short and require some down-climbing, and there is a knot-grabbing dead tree on this rappell. Watch it.

By tenesmus
Jul 23, 2006

Steve is right about being a good pitch for a beginning .10 leader. Really fun moves in the middle part of that shallow dihedral. Edges and smearing everywhere.

By triznuty
From: Murray, UT
Sep 25, 2006

There are two ways to do this pitch (1st pitch)... One is pulling the roof of the curving dihedral onto another slab just below the big ledge with the tree -- This is done after the 4th bolt. There's a bolt just over the roof. Clip it and head up. The other follows a couple more bolts out right and then meets up by the tree.

Not sure which is the direct and which is the variation..? But both ways are good choices for this pitch. One offers a nice little roof, while the other keeps to the slabbin.

By triznuty
From: Murray, UT
Sep 26, 2006

Me thinks the pitch marked as DOTM in the Ruckman's Guide, is really the 2nd pitch of Fool's..

By TP in SLC
Oct 24, 2007
rating: 5.10a

Very fun climbing, through a sea of bolts... At the crux I could touch 3 different bolts, with a 4th one just out of reach...." but if you climb 2 feet over here it's 10a"......sheesh....

good route though.