The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
Description
Just right of Schoolroom Direct Start is a tree filled crack. Climb this crack (a bit dirty), until you can reach the right-slanting thin crack above the pine tree. This crack is where the fun begins. Work up the progressively better rock using this crack until it ends, then step over and left, and follow the two bolts up the steep face to a right-trending groove, which is followed to the ledge system/belay station for Schoolroom pitch 2. 5.10b No! Granted I wasn't wearing my proper shoes for this type of climb, but that face is thin and IMHO harder than 5.10b. This compared more to Cheetah, or Punany for difficulty. It is a shorter sequence than those other two routes but just as difficult. Bring tough finger tips, good shoes, and as evidenced by the bail gear on bolt 2, bring a head willing to work through a tough sequence.
Protection
2 draws for the bolts, and a standard rack would work for the rest.
Alright, I'll go back to 5.10b on this one, now that I have got my shoes patched and got the lead successfully. The crack/flake gobbles up gear, but after the 2nd bolt it gets a wee bit runout.Deal with it.
Schoolroom Area
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