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Waterfront, The
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Disco Chicken 

5.11a R

   

FA: Rotert, McMillan 1982
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 267 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 12, 2005


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Eyeing the upward march.


Description 

As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This is the left bolted line. It starts in a groove system with a bit of crack work, and then it enters a ladder of chickenheads. Good moves, excellent balance required. Consistently hard climbing forces you to rest stances which luckily can be had. The line is funky, but who said chickenheads had to be in a straight line.


Protection 

3 draws for the climb and there are anchors up top. You may be able to sling a chicken head down low. If you finish left you may want a small selection of medium to small pieces.



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Fun sequence, one right after the other.

Fun sequence, one right after the other.


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By grk10vq
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.11 R

1. mantle, mantle, and mantle your way to the top.
2. bring a #2 camalot if you want to protect the direct exit.
3. carry your gonads home in a wheel barrel.