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Waterfront, The
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Disco Duck 

5.10a

   

FA: Gilbert, Alred 1979
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 677 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 12, 2005


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Looking up the base of the route to the finish. D...


Description 

As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This climb climbs the rightward trending crack, that stays left of the bolt line. A very fun climb, Disco Duck well deserves to be climbed regularly, as its only drawback is it's length and tricky pro. This climb starts easy, uses a fun hand crack, and then climbe to a ledge. The rightward sweep is the reason you came, you realize, as you hop across the chickenheads using the crack as an undercling. The rests are there even though they may not feel like it. Save a bit for the finish.


Protection 

Large piece or two for down low. medium to small stuff up higher, some tricky placements. Anchors up top.



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Here is a view of the route from across the gully on top of the easy slab.

Here is a view of the route from across the gully ...


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By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
May 13, 2006

got your self some traversing crack some chicken heads a blind placement here or there. off hand a really fun lead for a solid 5.10 climber o and theres layback! I would come back to do it again

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a

really great fun climbing. Crux is exiting the delicate laybacking for sure. Really dirty in the crack though... I was a little unsure about where to start this as that horizontal crack runs down pretty low.