BETA PHOTO: bottom of the great chockstone. climbs the obvious...
Description
The main crack system west of the Crescent Crack climb is The Great Chockstone. It is obvious because of the monster "chockstone". The 1st pitch is about 75% chimneying, and not many chimneys are too enjoyable, so plan on blood and frustration. After the chimney opens up, you can attain the belay ledge, right above the chockstone, by climbing very easy ladder-like ledges.
The 2nd pitch has no chimneying, but it does have a slightly overhanging section that seemed to climb more at 5.8 than 5.7. It climbs up and left of the main crack system attaining a gritty but easy slab that you traverse across for the finish.
Once you reach the main sandy ledge, the exit is up and west. Continue west and down, until you pass Hand Jive, and then Crack in the Woods.
Enjoy and bring the band-aids.
Protection
No fixed gear anywhere on this route, but one old piton above the 1st belay. Bring your larger gear. I used hexes, large nuts, but especially my SLCD's as the cracks tend to be flaring on this climb.
I'll agree its a hard 5.7!Going straight up (Lazurus) is good too and kinda hard for 5.8. To stay 5.8 you have to move left at the top (beware rope drag) - straight up is 10a I think but pretty well protected.
You can also exit these routes (and Missing link) by continuing to the top of the Crescent slab and rapping down to the Coffin ledge.
The first pitch's chimney is fun, with a section of squeeze. I found the second pitch to be significantly harder than 5.7. 5.9, maybe, if only for about 5 feet?
Crescent Crack Buttress
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