The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
Description
This route is an excellent variation for the final pitch of Beckey's Wall. From the 2nd belay station, continue up Beckeys for 10-20 feet and then work right along a ledge system. From here you can see the line of bolts. Climb the left line of bolts. The last bolt can be hard to pick out, it is there. From the anchors climb up and over (west) until you can reach some easily downclimbed ledge systems. These will take you to a large pine tree with slings, a cable, a biner, and 2 old rap rings (Five Fingers Rappel). Rap down and then downclimb and head east, where you can reach the Half-a-Finger anchors for a 2nd rap. The rock on this route is nice, albeit a bit flaky. Definitely a nice alternative to the easy gully scramble that finishes Beckey's Wall.
Protection
5 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. A couple of pieces could take a bite out of the beginning cruiser section.
This is a great pitch to do when doing Beckey's Wall. There are some runs between a few bolts, but just keep moving from chicken head to chicken head and you'll be to the next bolt before you realize.
I usually bring two 60m ropes when I do this climb. From the top anchors on Pebbles and Bambam one TWO rope rap gets you to the top of the second pitch of Beckey's and one more TWO rope rap gets you back at your packs. Be considerate not to throw you ropes on top of anyone if others are following you up.
1 70 meter rope gets you to the tree at the base of the route which has slings to get you to the top of Beckey's. Very stimulating lead getting to the 4th bolt.
By Jason Billings From: Draper, UT Jul 8, 2005 rating: 5.9
Just did this climb yesterday. This is a much bettter 3rd Pitch to Beckey's than the 5.4 crack. With a 70M rope you can run Beckey's all the way up to the tree skipping both of the standard Beckey's belay stations. If you're going to slingshot this route you will need the 70M rope for sure. All though most bolts are spaced around 15ft apart I woulnt' call this route runout. You can also get off this route with a 70M rope in 2 raps. Once from the rings on the tree and once from the first set of Becky's chains.
The 4th (?) bolt in the black water streak is strangely placed and drags you out on easy ground, making you either bypass the last part of the slab (probably the most fun) or climb it with a bunch of drag even if you use long runners. I thought about running it out and skipping that bolt but that leaves a lot of air under your ass. Then again I might have been confused and clipped a bolt from date with fate... Fun climbing either way. I'd recommend rapping from the top of the route to the tree at the top of Fingertip Variation then downclimbing (spooky)/belaying down to the chains on top of Beckey's for the next rappel. You can rap straight down from the tree to the intermediate Beckey's anchor but the slings around the tree are short and pulling your rope will be a major pain.
I did this finish after looking at 3rd P of Beckys. This pitch is great fun. Every time it starts getting scary you get to another chicken head to rest on. If you like slab you will love this variation. I skipped that last bolt it looked off route to me.
Beckey's Wall Area
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