At the west end of The Waterfront, just at the chockstone at the base of the cliffs, is this gully/crack, that angles right. The crux is getting off the ground. Good protection, and easy climbing makes for a great trad lead for beginners. At the 1 bolt anchor, I aimed for the chains to the west, going up and traversing over on the undercling crack, slinging chickenheads. Not a bad line to give you an easy exit.
Protection
1 OLD bolt for the anchor, so bring some backup, and the crack protects well with a standard rack.
The first 8 feet are the most interesting sequence. This deep crack gobbles up as much big gear as you care to place. Hexes and #2-4 cams work well. I was a little leary of the old, single rap bolt at the belay station. Break out the hemp rope and say your prayers, bailing off of that thing!
I have a feeling that this OLD bolt might soon get replaced. Now ....not having ever climbed this route, if this is in fact the belay / rappel and the route does not continue up and or have gear placements to incorporate into the belay, what would be the consensus on replacing the OLD bolt and then PLACING a second belay bolt.???? How would people feel about that???
This bolt in and of itself is in need of replacement. Now, with that said, 20-30 feet left are the anchors for the slabbier routes. These can be used for any descent, with a mild traverse, and therefore I don't see a need for "anchors" to be added, just a one-bolt replacement.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT May 29, 2005 rating: 5.6
Please do not replace this bolt. It really isn't necessary to begin with. There is pro available, and if you climb up to the ledges, there are several places where you can build a natural anchor. The crack on the second pitch would be great if it were steep. At the end of the second pitch, you can traverse left and into Plumbline Gully. I think there are other options above, but I've never done them.
It always funny to see somebodies made up screen name so they can post something without "public" persecution. BECK you are weak, thanks for the re-tarded anchor on the 1st recorded climb in lCC. Now i am not a rock cop but this anchor should be removed for posterity. And since i am sure you took the old ring hanger could you put that back too so my kids can see it when they climb it in 20 years...?
Waterfront, The
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