At the west end of The Waterfront, just at the chockstone at the base of the cliffs, is this gully/crack, that angles right. The crux is getting off the ground. Good protection, and easy climbing makes for a great trad lead for beginners. At the 1 bolt anchor, I aimed for the chains to the west, going up and traversing over on the undercling crack, slinging chickenheads. Not a bad line to give you an easy exit.
Protection
1 OLD bolt for the anchor, so bring some backup, and the crack protects well with a standard rack.
The first 8 feet are the most interesting sequence. This deep crack gobbles up as much big gear as you care to place. Hexes and #2-4 cams work well. I was a little leary of the old, single rap bolt at the belay station. Break out the hemp rope and say your prayers, bailing off of that thing!
I have a feeling that this OLD bolt might soon get replaced. Now ....not having ever climbed this route, if this is in fact the belay / rappel and the route does not continue up and or have gear placements to incorporate into the belay, what would be the consensus on replacing the OLD bolt and then PLACING a second belay bolt.???? How would people feel about that???
This bolt in and of itself is in need of replacement. Now, with that said, 20-30 feet left are the anchors for the slabbier routes. These can be used for any descent, with a mild traverse, and therefore I don't see a need for "anchors" to be added, just a one-bolt replacement.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT May 29, 2005 rating: 5.6
Please do not replace this bolt. It really isn't necessary to begin with. There is pro available, and if you climb up to the ledges, there are several places where you can build a natural anchor. The crack on the second pitch would be great if it were steep. At the end of the second pitch, you can traverse left and into Plumbline Gully. I think there are other options above, but I've never done them.
That OLD bolt had significant history behind it and it is a shame that it was removed for the sake of a convenience anchor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adventure
As a beginner, I climbed this route back in 1976. There weren't ANY bolts on the entire climb. Sad to see an unnecessary bolt station added to a very historic route.
This was the first officially recorded route in Little Cottonwood.
I climbed this route around 1982 and there was a bolt with a ring anchor around it. It looked old even back then. There is another route or two to the right of On The Waterfront that has the same anchors.(At least it did a year ago) They aren't in any of the old guides and one climbed a squeeze chimney.
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