The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
The left bolted line on the slab, Iron Grit has a fun bolt 1 to 2 sequence that is nice but too short. Otherwise it is still a nice climb as it follows Prune Face's finish.
Protection
3 draws for the bolts and 2 .75? camalots for the upper grooves. chains up top.
The first couple of moves off the starting chicken-head are the crux (although well protected by the first bolt). It eases up shortly after passing the first bolt, but remains engaging until the third bolt, where it rolls into 5.6/5.7. Personally, I think the crux moves are actually a little harder than Cheetah (also rated 5.11a).
The sequence through the crux has some really interesting movement with some serious friction. The route eases up considerably after the 2nd bolt and makes for a nice cruiser. The bolts are fairly spaced and the upper runout is really hard to justify on a route that was obviously not bolted on lead. Doesn't matter if it's easy, there are no extra style points for artificially creating a R-rated route on rappel.
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