Cheetah 

FA:  Black, Black Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  4 pitches, 300 feet Views: 474 page views Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 8, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>> Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing. Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access. In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings w/o lines

Description 

This route starts just east of Beckey's Wall, but west of Tarzan. In other words there are 2 bolted lines east of Beckey's, and this is the left line. The 1st 2 pitches can definitely be combined. This climbing is sequential and thin, a testpiece of microflakes and crystals. Getting to the 1st anchors (around the bulge) is the crux. It starts tough and doesn't let up (my fingertips are still screaming). The 1st 3 bolts have similar moves--micro-flakes and fingertips of steel, however getting to the anchors from the pair of bolts (1 old and 1 new) is a body english problem to stump the best of us. The second pitch (or 2nd half of the 1st pitch) is a romp up the slab (5.10a) in comparison. Belay at the anchors. The 3rd pitch climb the roof with fist jams and liebacks, and then the climbing gets interesting again. It traverses left (5.10) on thin holds around a steep section and finally slabs up the next face.There are 2 suspect bolts here so be careful. Belay at the tree. Pitch 4....to be continued as it got dark and we bailed.

P.S. Dont just do pitch 1, get on up ignore the grit and do pitch 3 as this adds the spice that makes the climb fun.

Protection 

Draws no more than 6 per pitch, and also extra for the chain anchors. A couple piece of large gear for the roof.

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BETA PHOTO: Cheetah and surroundings with lines 1) Cheetah w/ ...