Jessie nearing the second bolt on Paranoia Streak.
Description
On the left side of the kermits wall area is a long, thin water streak. The route follows the lower part of this streak, shifts right, then crosses back left to exit via a crack under a large block. (The route that continues directly up the streak is Koyaanisqaatsi, a .12c balance-fest which I have yet to contemplate.) Bring both your edging shoes and your lead head, as the second clip is serious. Aesthetic, stimulating, and fun to the finish! Combine this with Mind Blow for a two-of-a-kind session of crystal dancing.
Protection
Four bolts, two fixed pitons, and a few small nuts and cams (less than 2").
You can walk over and TR this from Touch Up. You can also reach Beam Me Up Scotty (good luck!) from this ledge system and then rap back down Paranoia Streak.
Bill Cramer put this up in 82. Bill is about 6'3', I'm 5'7"/ getting past the runout beginning is not to bad (keep it together) but getting past the buldge is hard 10-c/d. 6 or 8" of reach would definely help. One of the best routes in the canyon. Cheers
Hey Steve, How are you doing man? I see my reputation exceeds me. Do I really look that tall? I'm actually 6'0". Hank and I had fun on this one! I remember somewhere above the roof leading off some opposed sky hooks weighted with some 'biners to keep them in place. I think it was just before the cut back left. What youthful hubris! I heard there's a bolt there now. Probably a good thing too, almost no one carries skyhooks on their standard rack anymore.
By Drew Bedford From: Wasatch Back, UT May 19, 2008
Hey Bill, the bolt is mine. I decided there was too much good climbing in that black streak and so I bolted the continuation. Sorry if I perverted the boldness. A good variation is to continue up the streak and then exit left to the Paranoia belay before the 12c (?!) crux.
Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area
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