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Mind Blow 
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Talus Food 

Mind Blow 

5.10+ R

   

FA: Dave Houser, Jim Downs: 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 170 feet
Views: 471 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 20, 2004


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Description 

0.2"-1" cracks, steep friction & chickenheads.
Mentally engaging.
Drilled by hand on lead.


Protection 

0.2" to 1" cracks & bolts



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By Vince Romney
Jul 20, 2004
rating: 5.10d

Killer route! The moves just prior to the lip are sweet. Just barely enough bolts, definitely LCC style. Great to see this one show up on the newly-added routes list. Do this, then go do Paranoia Streak.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jul 20, 2004

Where is it? How many pitches? Descent?

By Vince Romney
Jul 20, 2004
rating: 5.10d

Ooops, got so fired thinking about this one I didn't notice it was missing a few details when commenting on it.

The route is located about 50' west of Bushwhack Crack. The climb is two pitches, the first contains the .10d crux, and ends after you roll up onto the lower angle slab above the lip (the last time I did this, you needed some small to medium nuts or cams to set up a trad belay in the groves/cracks leading to the Hook), and the second pitch (.9) moves up past two bolts and ends at the belay at the base of the hook. Rap 80' from here to the pitch one anchors for Bushwhack, then about the same to the ground. Might have to do this one again this weekend to see if it still looks the same...

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Aug 11, 2005
rating: 5.10d

Clarification on the location of the beginning of the route. Schoolroom Direct climbs a nice finger crack. Right of Schoolroom Direct is a vegetated corner leading to a diagonalling flake. This is The Great Ripoff. Right of this is a set of grooves that become a hollow sounding flake system, and then transitions into a tree filled groove. This is Mind Blow. Next crack is Bushwhack Crack. The tree hurts the route but not enough to drop it down to 2 stars. Once past the easy crack, you will find three tightly spaced bolts that protect consistently hard face/slab work. Pull the lip and the climbing eases, but so does the rate of bolts. Do it one pitch and end at the base of the Hook.Also, on the easier upper face, you can use a yellow Metolius to protect the crack before the 1st bolt (above lip), the 4th bolt overall. Finally, what makes this climb so great IMO, is you have a decent crack sequence, followed by well protected hard face climbing (the physical crux), and then you get easier, but runout climbing above that (the mental crux). If you don't find the yellow Metolius placement and you pitch off making that move before the 4th bolt, you are in serious trouble.

Have fun!!!

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d

one of the times i did this one there was blasting going on in the boulder field below. sure enough as i was pullin through the crux "KAPOW!!!" scared me right off the wall.