BETA PHOTO: Wheels on Fire climbs the crack until the obvious ...
Description
Wheels on Fire Direct is a very good variation high up on the Wheels on Fire route. The start is the same as for Wheels of Fire. Scramble up a really slick section to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake).
Instead of the leftward hand traverse at the flake, continue straight up the steep dihedral with a few small bulges. This climbing is quite juggy and has great jams, but is a lieback so a lead is much harder than a TR. The face smears are also quite ricey in spots.
Descent) One 60m rope rap gets you all the way down past the slick scrambling. This is a rope stretcher, but it is very safe, and is not the 130' mentioned in the guidebook. Make sure to watch out for the rock eating cracks near the anchor.
Protection
Standard Rack. Small cams up to a #3 camalot. The upper secion is mostly small hand sized.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator May 24, 2006 rating: 5.10a
If I had to choose this one or the original line, and I could only do one. I would have a hard time choosing one. This one is better for the fact that it is pumpier and more sustained. Original has the exciting traverse. Again though, great stances for great gear. I used the 3 chickenheads as my stances for gear. Run it out between.
Not much harder than the indirect version and at least as good. Watch for the horn of doom near the top that will catch your rope and shred it to pieces or stop you when you try to lower.
Green Adjective Gully
RSS Feed
