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Green Adjective Gully
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Unreliable 
Wheels on Fire 
Wheels on Fire Direct 

Wheels on Fire 

5.9

   

FA: Wheeler, Alred, Gilbert '78
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 1,130 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 2, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: Wheels on Fire climbs the crack until the obvious ...


Description 

Wheels on Fire is a continuously difficult climb with good gear and can be quite strenuous. Approach up the Green A gully, looking for the obvious thin crack on the right with a giant flake up high.

Start up a really slick section of scrambling to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake). Hand traverse left, then fire up the really cool left facing dihedral. Keep an eye to the right for the anchors, so as not to climb right past them!

Descent) One 60m rope rap gets you all the way down past the slick scrambling. This is a rope stretcher, but it is very safe, and is not the 130' mentioned in the guidebook. Make sure to watch out for the rock eating cracks near the anchor.


Protection 

Standard Rack. I placed gear ranging from tcu size up to a #3 camalot. Passive pro works really well too.



Add Photo Photos of Wheels on Fire
Another view with lines<br />1) Wheels on Fire<br />2) Wheels on Fire Direct

BETA PHOTO: Another view with lines
1) Wheels on Fire
2) Wheel...


Resting before the traverse.

Resting before the traverse.

Loving this no-hands rest.

Loving this no-hands rest.

Rob, moving on the traverse.

Rob, moving on the traverse.

Mike Buchannan living in the wrong era!

Mike Buchannan living in the wrong era!

John D. on the direct.

John D. on the direct.

A better shot of Mikey at the end of the traverse...I know a few folks who have fallen from here and swung back into the flake/crack...resulting in hurt ankles, etc.  I think its because they tried to place gear before moving all the way into the crack.

A better shot of Mikey at the end of the traverse....

Wheels on Fire, as seen from the the approach to Sinsemilla Crack.

Wheels on Fire, as seen from the the approach to S...


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By Michael Stearns
From: SLC, UT
May 29, 2008
CONDITION REPORT 

This route is still wet (Wednesday, 5/28) and the 3rd class move to the base is a waterfall. Hopefully it will dry soon, but until then save yourself the hike.

By Michael Stearns
From: SLC, UT
Jun 9, 2008
CONDITION REPORT 

Still wet (6/8/08)

By Boissal
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.9+

CONDITION REPORT 

The scramble to the base has a small trickle of water otherwise all dry.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.9

Another great route in an already great gully. Beside the lower section, this route sews up with medium to large nuts. Great stances to place great gear. Also, bring some runners.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.9

The climb is right at a massive chockstone with a seep, that blocks the east side of the gully, just beyond Solo Slot, the oh so obvious easy squeeze chimney.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 6, 2006

Fun route, a good one to do while waiting for the cooler temps, it's nice all morning in that gully...