BETA PHOTO: Wheels on Fire climbs the crack until the obvious ...
Description
Wheels on Fire is a continuously difficult climb with good gear and can be quite strenuous. Approach up the Green A gully, looking for the obvious thin crack on the right with a giant flake up high.
Start up a really slick section of scrambling to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake). Hand traverse left, then fire up the really cool left facing dihedral. Keep an eye to the right for the anchors, so as not to climb right past them!
Descent) One 60m rope rap gets you all the way down past the slick scrambling. This is a rope stretcher, but it is very safe, and is not the 130' mentioned in the guidebook. Make sure to watch out for the rock eating cracks near the anchor.
Protection
Standard Rack. I placed gear ranging from tcu size up to a #3 camalot. Passive pro works really well too.
By Michael Stearns From: SLC, UT May 29, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
This route is still wet (Wednesday, 5/28) and the 3rd class move to the base is a waterfall. Hopefully it will dry soon, but until then save yourself the hike.
By Michael Stearns From: SLC, UT Jun 9, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
The scramble to the base has a small trickle of water otherwise all dry.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator May 24, 2006 rating: 5.9
Another great route in an already great gully. Beside the lower section, this route sews up with medium to large nuts. Great stances to place great gear. Also, bring some runners.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator May 24, 2006 rating: 5.9
The climb is right at a massive chockstone with a seep, that blocks the east side of the gully, just beyond Solo Slot, the oh so obvious easy squeeze chimney.