The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
Tough lower slab.
Description
This climb ascends the right side of the slab. Start on the first half of "Prune Face", then follow the bolts continuing straight up the slab at the small overhang instead of traversing right. The first section is amazing, especially considering it was originally done with only one bolt! Thin moves up a groove and over the steep section at the begining place you on the slab proper. From the stance above the first bolt, move up thin slab climbing with the occasional solid hold thrown in. You don't want to be falling right before the third bolt. Once attaining the stance below the small "roof", clip the fourth bolt and start up continuous slab moves to the 8th bolt. I angled left here to the belay station instead of moving up to clip the last bolt. All in all, quite the entertaining moderate slab climb.
Protection
8 bolts (9 if you clip the final bolt rather than traverse to the anchors.
Forgot to add... The Ruckman guide has this rated at 5.8. After doing this I thought my slab technique had gone to hell if it was 5.8. It is actually around 5.9+, and I confirmed this with one of the first ascent party. It was mis-reported to the guide book. Great slab climb with interesting moves. Well worth the 5 minute approach! Also, the belay anchor currently has a spinner. I'll see if I can repair that this weekend.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Sep 2, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Not a 5.8. I would settle on 5.10a. A bouldery beginning, and then some serious face climbing until you attain the ledge. Runout from bolt 3 to 4, which seemed to me to be the crux. The upper face eases up. Extremely exciting slab.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Aug 18, 2006 rating: 5.10a PG13
Must do slab route! Bolt #1 is a spinner. I backed it up with a grey TCU in the shallow crack just to the right. There is about 20 feet of runout between bolts #3 and #4. The slab crux is right in between them, so don't fall. I slipped, but miraculously caught myself. This is the most mentally challenging lead I have done to date, largely due to the scaly, flaky nature of the rock.
I did this route a few years ago and up until just now thought that it was one of the hardest "5.8" climbs around. Good to know that I wasn't the only one who thought it was harder... I nearly peed my pants. Great climb, though. A fall would be pretty eventful...
Prune Face Slab
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