The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
Following the chickenheaded golden goodness.
Description
This pitch starts well above the ground, so the question is what do you climb first to get to it. The way we did it was: 1st pitch: Bushwhack Crack to the chains.2nd pitch: Exposed and runout, but easy traverse left and up until you can get a piece in a crack just above the crux of Mind Blow, and then follow the next 2 bolts up to the anchors.3rd pitch: The Climb ---- Follow a rightward ramp until it ends and then follow the line of 3 bolts up to the anchors on beautiful chickenheads and crystals. A ladder in a sea of granite.Either do 3 1-rope raps or 2 2-rope raps.
Protection
3 bolt anchor at the top, and 3 draws for the climb.
2 other ways exist to get to this route.1: Climb Mind Blow in it's entirety2: Climb Schoolroom to belay #2 and then take the groove further right then the 3rd pitch and attain the anchors
Stretch yr legs before this pitch. Lots of highstepping foot to hand matches on chickenheads. Flow up the rock with very cool moves. Should be called the Tai Chi pitch. I'll give it an extra star cause it's so high on the wall.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Dec 1, 2004 rating: 5.7
Here is another way to get onto this climb:
Climb the first pitch of Bushwhack as usual. Then climb the left crack on the second pitch of Bushwhack until the crack curves to the right. At this point, skip out onto the slab and straight up toward the knobs on Hook Variation. You can do all of this as one long pitch. Beware, that it is a bit runout until the first bolt this way.
Sadly a bolt was added to some of the crux moves of the hook. I'm talking about the final bolt below the belay at the top of the Hook.
Through the 70's and 80's climbers got the thrill of climbing some of the classic, crux moves of the hook (and the Hook variation) without a bolt at their face. Kor and Beckey did it, us old timers did it in our old slippery EB's. Even without this bolt a fall here wouldn't be too bad. Personally, I think the bolt should be removed.
Schoolroom Area
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