Direct finish to the last pitch of Pentapitch. Tenuous, steep slab moves lead to interesting inverted edges. From the middle anchor on the last pitch of Pentapitch head up and slightly right following the bolts.
Protection
6 quickdraws and chain anchors. It is best to lead this in one pitch from the giant ledge. No chance of factor 2 fall that way, as the first crux is between the middle anchor and the first bolt of this pitch.
If this is the line of bolts ascending directly up from the belay chains for the last pitch of Pentapitch, I think it is .10c. I met the guy while toproping at Strategem(first name Brian) who put it up . He said it was .10c. I did it last year and felt that was reasonably accurate, particularly between the 3rd and 4th bolt, where you have those inverted edges on the left, and nothing significant anywhere else. So, if you did this route and felt it was 9+, you are truly the slab monster...
If this is the line of bolts ascending directly up from the belay chains for the last pitch of Pentapitch, I think it is .10c. While at Strategem last year, I met the guy (first name Brian) who put it up. He said it was .10c. I did it last year and felt that was reasonably accurate, particularly between the 3rd and 4th bolt, where you have those inverted edges on the left, and nothing significant anywhere else. So, if you did this route and felt it was 9+, you truly are a slab monster...
I think Tim Wolfe and pat maloney put up this bolted finish to Pentapitch, not anyone named Brian?I can't remember the name, though.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Aug 8, 2005 rating: 5.10c
Great line that adds another fun slab pitch to Neuromancer/Nubbins lines. A little insecure getting to the first bolt, to say the least. I just kept thinking factor 2 fall, factor 2 fall. Beyond that the climbing is consistent, fun, non-LCC slab.
Pat Malony, George Rosenthal and I put this route up a few years ago. A jewel right in our face for years. No particular name, just a great slab climb without the serious runnouts on other slabs (it was rap drilled so we decided it needed to be fairly safe). I have climbed it 4 times. I think it is about 10c, definately harder than Fin arete or Kermits Wad, a bit easier than Angels Ladder or Dorsal Fin.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jun 2, 2006 rating: 5.10c
I've climbed this route several times, usually after doing the final pentapitch route. Rap down to the chains and give it a go....I've always wondered what this route is and would agree with the 10 c rating again at the first bolt area....Great Job Tim
Pentapitch Area
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