The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
BETA PHOTO: Mantle Variation
Description
Climb the ledged face, past the three bolts. If you can climb this climb, then you can mantle. Very enjoyable, just short.
Protection
Slings are around the tree at the top, but bring your own just in case. 3 draws for the climb.
By triznuty From: Murray, UT Oct 23, 2005 rating: 5.9
Great var. start to schoolroom west. It adds some spice. Very good mantels.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 19, 2006
Route in the photo does look like the Mantle Variation. Someone added several bolts to this route. Was an established line without the bolts. Seem to recall that a bunch of folks (me included in '85) had led it sans bolts. Sorta surprised it hasn't been chopped, but, have to admit last time I led it, I clipped them darn things...ha ha.
I think there was also a variation that used a piton way out to the right as well (long gone by now). But, I seem to recall most folks used the line protected by the bolts. Described in several guidebooks prior to the bolts being added.
-Brian in SLC
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 20, 2006
The mantle variation was in Desperate Grace in 1975, Wasatch Granite in 1977 and Wasatch Rock Climbs in 1984. As well as the latest Ruckman guide. Was perhaps more clearly stated as following the water streak in those earlier guides. As also mentioned that folks more commonly top roped it, but, after talking with a couple of the old guard (guidebook authors), I'm sure it was led way back in the day. No question in my, or the guidebook authors' minds that the bolts are ON the mantle variation. There just isn't any other mantle-esque terrain around there, and, its a natural line. Commonly done as a alternate start to schoolroom, or, a TR.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT May 23, 2007
The picture I posted under my profile is of one of the guidebook authors...on the route.
And, DT concurred as well (we sat at the base of the route and discussed all the bolts).
I believe every bolt below where the standard Schoolroom route traverses across is on what is/was known as the mantle variation. The bolt line follows the natural weaknesses. Same route I lead ground up on site in the mid 80's (and was commonly done prior).
I'm not saying that the bolts should be yanked. I clipped the darn things last time I led it, for sure. I guess my days of soloing that type of terrain are gone...
Its a fun variation and a neat way to start schoolroom.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 12, 2007
No way, that guy's a hack.
Pretty sure Pete C, BS, etc etc had lead it prior to '85. I recall many folks that knew it'd been led sans bolts prior to '85.
I'll bet a whole slug of folks led it back in the day. 70's at least. Given the Lowe clan floatin' around, etc, wouldn't be surprised if it was done in the 60's.
By triznuty From: Murray, UT Jun 15, 2007 rating: 5.9
If you have a hard time getting Dennis Turville's number, I could probably get it..
Schoolroom Area
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