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Coffin Buttress
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Viewing, The 

The Viewing 

5.10a R

   

FA: Ruckman & Douglass '87
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 939 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 14, 2004


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Description 

The Viewing is an excellent face climb on the right side of the Coffin Buttress. This climb is often toproped from the anchors to the right of the Coffin Crack, which avoids some big runouts between bolts. To do this, set a TR after climbing the Coffin.

Climb the fingery 5.9 opening to the Coffin (or traverse in from the left). Keep going up the Coffin until a traverse right is possible above a black chickenhead. This is above the first two bolts and piton on the right for the climb "Closed Casket". Then follow the thin edges up past 4 bolts to a set of chain anchors.

Descent) Rap with one rope (60m is preferable) back to the ground. A 50m rope might be a stretch.


Protection 

Small cams and nuts for the start, same as the Coffin. Then 4 or 5 bolts to a set of chain anchors.



Comments on The Viewing Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 29, 2004

did a direct start on lower arete to route (on TR)....any idea of difficulty?

By Vince Romney
Jun 29, 2004

Yeah, the direct start to the Viewing is called the "Closed Casket Variation", and is somewhere in the low to mid .11's

By Dave Budge
From: Wasangeles
Sep 30, 2005
rating: 5.10a

Four stars. Great route. Direct start is in-your-face tough, probably 5.11ish.

By Nathan Fisher
Mar 1, 2006
rating: 5.9+ R

Fun lead, well worth doing. I felt it wasn't a 5.10a, but a 5.9+, as the edges are so positive. Maybe in the old days when you were climbing with that runout above 1/4"-er's, it felt more like a 5.10a.

By Texaswall
From: West Jordan, UT
May 15, 2008

TR'ed this route today after leading Coffin Crack. I agree it's a fine face climb, and in my humble opinion, it's all of 10a. Granted, that rating might be consistent with LCC standards, but LCC standards for friction (and face) seem to be stiff. What I find a little strange is that crack ratings seem to be more in line with other crags across the country.
My 70 year-old partner, a man that has climbed with some greats and in a lot of locales (including a lot in the Wasatch), agrees. At a minimum, as he stated after starting the climb, you should be a SOLID 5.10 leader to take on The Viewing.

By Casey Jenen
Jul 23, 2008
rating: 5.10a

This was a fun lead and it felt like a good 10a. Good holds and just super fun.

By Gordon Douglass
Feb 4, 2009

When Stuart and I put this route up we did grade it 9+ but it was subsequently upgraded to 10a. BTW no top rope rehearsal but looking out there from the Coffin Crack it looked like it would go. Drilled on the lead with a hand held percussion drill, 1/4 inch by 1 inch Rawl buttenhead bolts, about 45 minutes per bolt.

Take care - Gordon

By Luke Douglas
Feb 8, 2009

Thanks for the post Gordon. What a great story to add to the route description!!! Post more.
It would be great if Gordon's post could be added to the route description and not buried here in the comments.
Luked

By Alec
Oct 3, 2009
rating: 5.10a R

I thought this was a bit harder than the S-Direct and solid LCC .10a. Excellent rock and sustained right to the end.