Really quite entertaining, and perfect for the hot summer days when this is in the shade for a good portion of the day. Moderate difficulty mixed with decent exposure and odd moves make for a worthwhile outing. The route is about dead-center on Industrial Wall, and is the up-canyon route of the two on either side of the roofs and blocks. The start is directly below the first roof on the granite blocks. Move up into the broken corner that makes up the climb. Ascend the crack and face to the first roof. Moving out right of this roof is one of the more entertaining moves on the climb. Continue up through the next block and roof to the exit move out over a spike of granite. Rap the route.
Protection
Five bolts, Five quickdraws... Funny how that works out. Belay is bolted with chains.
the 10a/b next to it sharing the same anchors has a smashed second bolt from recnt rockfall. hoffa finger has serious dirt all over the start from the rockfall also.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Jul 21, 2006 rating: 5.9+
There is a trick to pulling the crux roof. Without knowing the trick, pulling the roof requires a lot of balance and strength (probably a 5.10b move); otherwise, the route is a stout 5.9+.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 22, 2006 rating: 5.9+
There is definitely an easy way to climb the roof. However, between myself and 2 others that I watched climb it, there were 3 different styles demonstrated of climbing the roof. A great route with lots of fun moves.
Definitely many ways to go through that roof, some of them feeling harder than 5.9... Step out right to reach a crimp and forget about the crack altogether and it feels like a 9. Lieback on this crack with smeared feet and you'll have to do battle ! I felt like the crux was before the roof though, some really slippery feet.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jul 12, 2008 rating: 5.9+
what a classic sleeper route on the industrial wall!! Slabby delicate start to fist jamming roof pulling to heel hooking awesomeness! Loved it. In the shade and 10 degrees cooler.
Industrial Wall
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