Mexican Crack 

What a great varied route. It starts off with a tricky dihedral (use your head), some nice vertical grooves, and then the finale. Pick your stances and place your pro in the diagonalling crack smartly. There are many resting stances. This route epitomizes a classic route. It has length, varied climbing, exposure, good rock, and consistent difficulty.

The diagnaling crack up top is quite sensational. Most definitely a worthwhile outing.

I did this route yet again, and my partner brought up a good point that I would tend to agree with: If the route is a 5.10a and the crux is on the diagonalling crack, yet arguably the hardest move, in reality, is the dihedral, is the climb really a 5.10a? What I am getting at is that the 5.9 move feels a lot harder. I know, I know, quit my whining, but I have watched more people struggle on the start than anywhere else. That is my 2 cents on this one.

I feel the same way as Nathan about the start of this climb. For me, the dihedral is much more difficult than anything else on the entire climb. However, in my case, I can definitely attribute this to two things: (1) height, it is a long reach for my short legs, and (2) flexibilty, in that I don't have any. Other people I know have little to no problem with the start, many of them much smaller than me (which is how I know that it isn't just height).

Can't wait to climb it again!

That's a classic LCC 5.10a! like most of the routes in the canyon...things rated 9+, tend to be harder than things rated10a. Gotta love those old school grades...you can can just hear the old dogs standing around scratching their heads in 1975..."I dunno man...that was pretty hard, but not the hardest ever (5.10 at the time being pretty high end)...better rate it 5.9 so people don't think we're wusses!"

Anyone else notice this? if you can climb 10a gear in LCC you will climbe alot harder elsewhere. As for another route like this, I think of Bloody fingers in the city. 10a with a soild 10b bouldery start? Still 10a? I guess???............

I have found that a sweet palming move with the right hand in the bottom dihedral makes things a bit easier. The move is a little insecure, but there is good pro at your waist. I noticed the ring pin just above the dihedral is deformed! I always clipped the sucker but never wanted to test it out. That thing is older than I am!

I didn't find the dihedral to be too difficult , though it probably is 5.10. My trouble came about eight feet from the top when I got near the chicken head. I grabbed it as a hand hold and was so pumped that I lost it while making my move. Had a nice sized fall from that one! Guess I should have just stuck with the jams! Nothing like falling two moves from the top.

this was my nemesis when i first started climbing. took me 3 or 4 tries to get it clean, and many more to do w/grace

Ahhh, tried to onsight it today, and got spanked by that corner. Fell twice onto a blue metolius right before the hard part was over. Then it started to rain, and we had to bail. So frustrating, I'm going to be feeling like a chump the rest of the day.

In 2002 I belayed a friend who used some sort of a head smoosh bringing his legs left and up making his body horizontal. I stood there mouth open thinking his neck would snap.

I agree with Bobby, this start is just something you have to push through, but the dihedral is the hardest part!

Gotta say, of all the "classics" in LCC, I really don't consider this one.

Onsight on this required me pulling a Lynn hill ala "the nose". I literally had to turn around and face out of the corner, and stem/shuffle up it. Made for an interesting climb, but one I didn't find all that enjoyable.

Beautiful route. Top-roped laps on it today. The dihedral is indeed tricky. I can't say if it's 5.9 or 5.10-...it just seems to be one of those challenges that granite throws at you now and again. The middle section a little tenuous...especially in warm, direct sun. The angling crack is positive and sensational. There are such good fingerlocks and thin hands in it! Quickly moving my feet from blob to blob, and occasionally using the crack for my right foot, was key for it not being too pumpy. Can't wait to do it again.

Did this route again yesterday. I can say with no shame, I have no clue what I'm supposed to be doing in that dihedral. I flailed, eventually got past it. The diagonalling crack was Easy, compared to both the dihedral and the tenuous face/seam middle section, at least for me. The crux is short, and the feet aren't really that bad, I had right foot in the crack most of the way too.

D.Shiembob, if you really want to know...try climbing the dihedral like a chimney (i.e. put your whole body/butt into the wall on the right, use both feet on the face holds out left, and voila...you can get no hands rests for most of the hard section! Then simply use the bomber face holds on the left up high and lunge for the horn...
Once you get it down pat, don't even bother putting gear in until you get that horn...it makes for a much smoother rope run...

Listen to Glen. When in this positions, there is also a really nice wrist lock/fist jam where the crack widens out.

I love this route and its three distinct sections. Its nice to get the hard part over early and then be able to enjoy the rest! I do the chimney technique too, but must be using my shoulder more than my head cause I always end up with a rasberry there regardless of how many shirts I have on! Talked to someone who said they face climbed around the right to the horn but can't remember how hard they thought that was. I also like the old rating cause 9+ is always harder than 10a!