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Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
Leading Satan's Corner (5.8) in Little Cottonwood ...
Description
Super classic jam crack!! Stout for 5.8, and gear can be a little strenuous to place at times. Start in the same spot as Beckey's Wall. Satan's Corner can be done in 1 or 2 pitches. Fairly sustained, both pitches are 5.8.
P1) Climb the vertical hand jam crack on the wall left of Beckey's Wall. The crux comes at a spot where the crack is too wide for easy foot jamming. Belay at a good sized ledge with a hand sized crack for setting an anchor.
P2) Climb a short easy crack, then step over to a ledge. Then hand jam up a steep and exposed flake, with some delicate moves required. Continue up to a fixed pin, then hand traverse left on jugs to the anchors (same anchors as Lisa's Shoulder).
Descent) Rap 100' down the dihedral back to the base. A 50 meter rope would probably only reach the ledge a little higher with some easy downclimbing.
Protection
Standard Rack. Emphasize hand size, but I placed sizes from a green alien up to a 3.5 camalot.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 2, 2004
The book, Rock Climbing Utah, by Stewart Green suggests to be solid placing gear before doing this climb. Apparently, there have been accidents on this route with at least one death.
That being said, this climb definitely sews up. Although placements can be strenuous, gear can be placed pretty much every foot of the climb, so it can be very safe! Be careful, and have fun on this one!
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 18, 2004 rating: 5.8+
Excellent and sustained. Extra cams from #0.5 to #2 Camalot are useful if you lead the climb as one pitch. The crux section above the halfway ledge felt harder than 5.8.
If you haven't done this route, get off your A$$ and do it. One long pitch makes for better climbing as it flows, and then you get to lead the entire route. 50M rope gets you to the base of Stem the Tide and then downclimb the chimney.
First pitch is a little harder than it looks. The jams are pretty deep but climbing is straight forward. Second pitch is just plain fun with a sweet flake traverse loaded with great exposure. Don't forget your foot jam on the cruxy section above the halfway ledge!
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.8
I heard a story years ago that local hardman Doug Heinrich was soloing this route (or maybe one of the other dihedrals routes), pitched, did two flips (used to be a diver I guess), landed on the ledge on his feet , broke both ankles, and survived! What a stud. I also believe the deaths had to do with a person getting such bad rope drag, they untied to solo over to the anchors...and took the big ride to Valhalla.
After climbing this route a few times, the first pitch still feels somewhat insecure the whole way. 2 years ago, this was my 2nd ever trad lead as an aspiring 5.8 leader (very bad idea). Halfway through the first pitch I loaded up my shorts and bailed left to the 5.6 variation. The next week I drug an "over confident" 5.12 sport climber up there only to see him humbled in the same way. The second pitch is fantastic! Great exposure under the hand traverse. Definitely a classic.
tea, doug was soloing half-a-finger on his epic fall. as for the other deaths on SC: one involved the leader getting heinous rope drag, untying(!) and trying to solo the last moves; the other was a rappel accident when a fixed pin atop the "first pitch" pulled, iirc.
I did it as one pitch today, man this thing is cool. I find the bottom of the corner on the second pitch to be the crux. The first handcrack is so money, I ran it out (after the crux) without even realizing it.
Noah Duys died in 9/2004 while rapping from a single pin atop the first pitch. He was in a hurry as darkness approached, and rain was falling. I like to call this Noah's Corner, though I doubt that this will catch on.
Have done this a dozen times and would do it many dozen more...one of my all time favorites! Each steep jamming part is made much easier with good foot jams.
By Derek Newman From: Holladay, UT Aug 17, 2009 rating: 5.8+
I climbed this today; it was my first multi-pitch/lead/trad climb and it was very humbling. My friend and I messed up on our protection so many times we decided to do it twice to prove to ourselves that we can protect well. We climbed well the first time but protected poor and climbed poor the second time but protected better. I felt that the crux is on the second pitch about twenty feet up, and the crux feels a lot more difficult than a 5.8 to me. But, this was very psychologically terrifying for me so I wasn't in the greatest state of mind to judge. I thought the protection is safe, but again I'm not the most experienced judge in this situation.
By Taylor Ogden From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 17, 2009 rating: 5.8+
Yeah, I'm the genius that got the above poster into trouble. Still, it was a rocking climb, and required a lot more finesse than I can usually pull off :P
The crux is definitely pulling up the crack on the second pitch. Don't be afraid (like I was!) to smear in order to get a good high foot jam. Super exposed traverse on the biggest rail you'll ever find (feels like a ladder rung) makes you feel like a badass!
P1 - Straightforward if you are comfortable jamming. I saw a strong sport climber take a fall on this section due to lack of jamming skills P2 - Easy low angle crack to a steeper, left pushing hand crack, flaring in sections making jamming impossible. Agree with Taylor - key for me was to smear left foot (yikes! exposure!), jam right foot, walk up hands, repeat. Don't clip that manky old fixed cam!
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