This climbs the right bolted line on the face to the right of the waterfall. Clip your 1st bolt and make the crux move. The climbing eases a bit the rest of the way.
Protection
2 bolts at the top for the anchors. 4 draws are needed.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jun 16, 2005
This route is probably easier than the 5.7 just to its left because the start isn't quite as hard. Hard to rate these things though because they get so much easier past the first bolt.
By Jason Billings From: Draper, UT Oct 10, 2005 rating: 5.8+
I disagree this route is not easier than the Flee Flicker the 5.7 to the left. I thought the start of this was very slick. I would recommend stick clipping the first draw. I found it difficult to get a secure stance from which to clip the first draw. Fall while clipping the first draw and you'll wind upside down on the boulder below. I agree that once you get out of the initial slick stuff climb does become much easier.
By Rebecca Airmet From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 15, 2006 rating: 5.8+ PG13
Am I the only one that thinks the mantle thing above the third bolt is at least kind of hard? Or am I doing it wrong? I use the big slopey chalk-covered holds about a foot and a half above the bolt, bringinng weight onto the left foot on the chickenhead just at the bolt...
By chrisnsmith From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 6, 2007 rating: 5.8+
Rebecca, I agree. I thought the mantle at the third bolt was the hardest move. It sounds like I'm doing it the same way you are (really committing with my left foot).