The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
BETA PHOTO: Chicken Rodeo climbs the face to the big chickenhe...
Description
Climb into the Green Adjective Gully. On the right (west-facing) wall, just after a slippery 3rd class chimney problem, is this wall. The climb kind of scrambles up a ledge, and then it moves right and climbs a small chimney to a ledge. From here the real climbing begins. This climbs the grooves left of the nice big chickenhead, right at an overhang. Climb the 1st groove, pull a lieback, and a toe jam, then move to the left groove, and make another thin move or two, then wander right avoiding the final goove that turns horizontal at the end. Because of it's possible unprotectability, this climb makes an awsome warm-down climb after doing a larger climb that requires Schoolroom Rappel.
Protection
2 bolts (Schoolroom Rappel) are at the top for an anchor. The climb itself looks tough to protect. A 3 1/2 cam for the top. Down low, and near the crux, maybe utilize some small Aliens. Be careful.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 2, 2004
The Scourge is a fun TR option after doing some route to get up the Schoolroom. This is a popular rap station, so best to TR this climb during an off-time. Also, make sure to TR through your gear, the chains are already well worn. As a lead, this warrants a vs. I didn't see any pro options until the very top, where the climbing is easier.
Schoolroom Area
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