The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
Enjoying the beautiful Sweet Jane cracks on a magn...
Description
The Sweet Jane Variation follows most of the route Tarzan (5.10a). Start this climb by first approaching to Becky's Wall. Traverse 3rd class slabs right to a couple of bolts next to each other. This is the start to Tarzan.
P1) To climb the Sweet Jane Var, start right of the bolts in a 5.7 crack. Follow this only a short ways, until it is possible to step left into the Tarzan crack. Then follow this crack to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2) Continue up the crack, soon encountering two cracks paralleling each other on the upper face. Start in the left crack, then switch to the right when possible. Follow this up to a set of chain anchors.
Descent) Lots of choices!1. Rappel using 2-ropes back to the base.2. 2 one rope rappels3. Continue up a short ways to the right, then scramble down. I haven't done this, so I am not sure how easy it is.4. If you have time, do Tingey's Terror (and optionally Tingey's Torture) for more good pitches of climbing.
Protection
Standard Rack. Mostly the gear is finger and small hand sized.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Apr 26, 2004 rating: 5.7
Pitch 2 has 1 piton in the upper crack
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Oct 19, 2004 rating: 5.7
The route can easily be climbed in one pitch. A few extra finger-to-hand-sized cams are useful if you do this. The crux is at the starting corner.
By Jason Billings From: Draper, UT Mar 13, 2005 rating: 5.7
Easy to set gear on.This was my first trad and first lead (pitch 2). Also a great way to setup a toprope for Cheetah pitch 2 if you want to practice some great friction climbing.
Beckey's Wall Area
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