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Crescent Crack Buttress
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Crescent Crack Direct Variation 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 579 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 24, 2004


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Description 

The direct variation to Crescent Crack is a good way to finish the topout of Crescent Crack, or as an approach to the bolted slab, the Final Link (5.9). Instead of traversing down and right at the sloping shelf on top of pitch two, continue up the dihedral (thin, 5.9). Pass a piton on the left, then work up through an awkward section to a ledge. From here, Final Link works left with a hard mantle and a bolt, or finish by heading right and up.


Protection 

Standard Rack



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By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.9+

Very awkward climbing on this finish. Definitely a better finish than the Crescent Crack sloping ramp exit.

By John Bradford
Oct 12, 2005
rating: 5.9

The exit on this pitch can be tricky, and rope drag a real problem if the belay is not done correctly. Better to pull the move up onto the slab and belay from the bolt anchor at the base of Final Link, then either finish with that pitch (a great way to do the whole C.C. experience) or rappell back down to the base of the ramp exit.

By Mark Michaels
From: Midvale, UT
Sep 21, 2006

Excellent variation! Nice 5.9 angling crack with some delicate footwork, to a flaring, exposed feeling chimney. The finish around the corner to the right makes it somewhat less enjoyable. But adding the Final Link 5.9 slab finish, and a trip up the Coffin, makes this one of my favorite outings in the canyon! We need a name for the "Crescent-Direct/Final Link/Coffin" link up. Unbroken Chain? C.C.D.F.L.C?

By Boissal
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.9-

So much better than the normal finish!!
The direct variation completely redeems the grunt through the offwidth. Fun moves in the dihedral with well spaced bomber holds and slick feet. The pro is there but do you want to hang there placing a cam? Going up the horn looks harder than it really is but still feels very airy.
If you want to make the mantel on the slab more enjoyable (ie not involving heinous rope drag pulling your ass down) clip your last pieces below the horn and the bolts with long runners and get to the anchors of the Final Link, it's worth it.

By LCCgradechaser
Jun 25, 2008

Boisal I bet you were facing the wrong way in the OW. If you face down (toward bealyer) it's hard. If you face the sky and grab the jug, it's 5.7