This is the direct start to "the viewing" This route now makes "The Viewing" separate and independent from "the Coffin Crack". Some people have rated it 5.11a, other say 5.12a. It is well protected, and gives "the viewing" a complete run for your money.
Protection
Two bolts and 1 piton in the horizontal crack protect the direct start to "the viewing"
I did this today, and definitely feel it really does create a "complete" route for The Viewing. Fun face moves up through the junction with the Viewing. It is definitely thin through the crux, but not too thin. I'll guess .11b/c. Thanks to whoever put this up!
I was climbing the coffin just after the new hardware appeared and a long time local was there also. It was told to me that the line that was now newley eqquipped with fixed hardware had been done long ago free without the fixed hardware. I was just wondering if the one who placed the new hardware looked for any kind of permission and if it was done ground up as was the the "the viewing". I had top roped the line before it was bolted and thought it fun but not needing bolts. To be more to the point, this is not a new route and is not a first ascent, maybe that is why the f.a. info says "not important".
Great Questions ASENDR. To answer your questions: The FA (specifically Gordon) was asked about this variation before anything was done. He saw no problem with this. It was added to hopefully clean up the bottle neck that occurs when people climb the regular version of the viewing. I once waited three hours for a party to clean gear from the coffin while they TR'ed the viewing (poor form in my opinion). The FA was listed "not important" because the main route is more important than the variation. It was not done for personal glory, or to see a name in a guidebook, I prefer to avoid that. If the FA is important to you, by all means claim it as yours! I am sure that no one cares. If this route was led sans bolts, I want to shake the hand of that person. I am sure they set off metal detectors everywhere for the steel nuts they carry between their legs!!! The variation makes for an independent line from the coffin crack, and can still be climbed any way you choose. I hope this helps answer some questions.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Sep 21, 2007 rating: 5.11b
I unwittingly started up this variation, thinking that it was the start to the Viewing. My guidebook was at home, so I just went for it. I remember feeling really insecure for 5.10a slab, but just thought that it was because I hadn't been climbing for a week because I had been fighting a nasty cold. I wished that I had brought better edging shoes though.
Coffin Buttress
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