Climbing the massive dihedral on Gordon's Hangover...
Description
Super classic! There are two ways to approach the meat and potatoes of Gordon's Hangover. I am describing the original start, which takes the most direct line. This way also makes the route best done as one long pitch. Start in the huge dihedral downhill from the Green Adjective. This is also the same start as Touch Up and Perhaps.
Climb the huge dihedral, very moderate for the first 50' or so. Continue up, through slightly increased difficulty, to a big undercling flake. Traverse left with powerful liebacks (first 5.9+ crux, not as hard as it looks). Then quickly encounter the second 5.9+ crux. This time it is a bulging hand crack. The hand crack has bomber hands, but is awkward for the feet. Finally, traverse right 10' on good holds to the anchor. Make sure to protect the second through all the traverses.
Descent) Double rope rap directly to the ground. Alternatively, single rope rap to the fixed anchors on Perhaps. One more single rope rap to the ground.
Protection
Standard rack. This is a long pitch, so bring quite a bit of gear. A #3 camalot is good for the undercling traverse, and save a #2 camalot size for the crux bulging hand crack.
Add PhotoPhotos of Gordon's Hangover, Original Start
BETA PHOTO: Perhaps, Gordon's Hangover, Touch Up
Approaching the undercling flake, Gordon's Hangove...
Powering through the flake.
Andrew pulling through the first crux on Gordon's ...
Add CommentComments on Gordon's Hangover, Original Start
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By Nathan Fisher Administrator Sep 24, 2005 rating: 5.9+
The other way to start Gordon's Hangover is to do the 1st pitch of Perhaps and then come up the crack to the main part of Gordon's. Again, another great climb with committment. The initial crux (the bulgy layback) looks harder than it is, and is way intimidating. However, as Peter says, the bulging hand crack is tough. My partner could not do it easily.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.9+
good line. a little crumbly about mid way up. consider pro right after the bulge for the follower. how about that step across to the anchor!
Fabulous route. We did it as one pitch, although rope drag can be an issue. The route starts out easy, then gets progressively more difficult all the way to the anchors. The cruxes first feature a massive flake requiring sidepulling and high stepping, followed by a steep fist crack (I had to step out onto the face at right to finish). In all, worthy of a 4-star rating.
If this was the only route available, it would still be worth the boulder hopping slog.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Sep 27, 2006 rating: 5.9+
Having climbed both variations of Gordon's, the Original long one pitch version is the best, if rope drag can be controlled.
By Wally29 From: Salt Lake City, Utah Oct 16, 2006
Pretty mellow until intimidating undercling traverse, but good feet and bomber pro. Hand crack crux is akward on the feet and requires some commitment. Protect second for traverse to anchors.
Kermits Wall and Perhaps Area
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